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onjour!
Paris may well be admired for its famous magnificent monuments, but sometimes it is the lesser-known
attractions that will surprise you, such as those pearls of Parisian architecture that reflect the
unbelievable know-how of 19th century artisans. The Petit Palais, today an art museum, is one of
those treasures that you must discover, whether by simply taking a romantic walk through its
luxuriant interior garden, or making a rest stop in its serene light-bathed atmosphere. But
before you go, it is worth reviewing its history which is tied to the 1900 World’s Fair.
But before continuing, please remember that you can access and read all the newsletters already
published at http://www.francemonthly.com/
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The World’s Fairs
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The first World’s Fair was organized in London in 1851. The very latest modern world inventions
were on display in the magnificent glass Crystal Palace, the envy of many foreign capitals.
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The Petit Palais from the Seine River
(Click photo to enlarge)
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This gave France the impetus to host such an event itself, one that would cause a similar international
sensation. Four years later, on May 15, 1855, the Emperor Napoleon III inaugurated the second World’s Fair
in Paris, in the presence of Queen Victoria and the King of Sardinia. He had a huge palace built for the
occasion at the bottom of the Champs-Elysées, the ‘Palais de l’Industrie’ where five million visitors
came to admire the French and foreign industrial prototypes. From that day on, every eleven or twelve years,
Paris welcomed the crowned heads of the world and show them the most brilliant successes of modern times.
In 1867, the telegraph and the sewing machine were presented for the first time, on the Champ-de-Mars,
in a Paris completely transformed by Baron Haussmann. In 1878, the ‘Palais du Trocadero’ was built on the
hill of the same name. It was then rebuilt for the 1937 World Fair and re-named the ‘Palais de Chaillot’.
Still standing today, it houses the ‘Théâtre National de Chaillot’ in one wing, and the wonderful ‘Musée
de l’Homme’ in the other. In 1889, the telephone and electricity were introduced to amazed visitors inside
the largest exhibition hall ever built, at the foot of an iron tower erected by a certain Gustave Eiffel.
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Hostile Parisians
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Towards the end of the 19th century, the Champs-Elysées was a very popular place to stroll for Parisians.
Long gone were the days of the large wasteland that Louis XIV wanted to turn into a prestigious “royal road”.
It had become a long and large avenue that stretched from the Tuileries to the Arch of Triumph and was
planted with many trees which occasionally framed large rectangular clearings forming charming squares.
The itinerant merchants sold drinks and candy, and many celebrations and shows were organized there.
The decision to host the upcoming 1900 World’s fair at the bottom of the Champs-Elysées immediately
caused a heated debate, as it went to reason that the neighborhood would have to be redeveloped.
Parisians hadn’t forgotten the 20 years it took Baron Haussmann’s enormous construction site to
clear up, and were weary the capital would once again be disfigured. The architects of this ambitious
project were faced with a double challenge: to proceed with the city improvements while not exacerbating
the congestion at the bottom of the Champs-Elysées.
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Recipe for December 2006
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Apple Flan
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A New Perspective
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Indeed, at the end of the 19th century, this area was far from presenting the superb perspective
that you can admire today. The ‘Palais de l’Industrie’ built for the 1855 World’s Fair, once such
a modern and impressive monumental structure, was taking up too much space and looking out of place.
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The Petit Palais on the Right Side
(Click photo to enlarge)
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It completely blocked the view of the superb ‘Hôtel des Invalides’, only allowing the dome to show.
Next to it, the Pavilion of the City of Paris, built in 1882 to house the city’s art collections,
only accentuated the passerby’s feeling of confinement. Circulation had become very difficult.
Pedestrians, horses, and coaches all mingled with each other in a dangerous and chaotic pattern.
And so it was decided these two buildings would have to come down in order to build a large avenue
that would link the Champs-Elysées to the Invalides. The perspective was emphasized by the construction
of the Alexander III bridge. Connecting both banks of the river Seine, it lead to a magnificent esplanade
and the Invalides train station that today houses an RER (express subway line) station and the offices of
Air France KLM.
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A Competition for the Two Palaces
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For the 1900 World’s Fair, it was decided to build a lasting monument that would fit within
the guidelines of the urban design plan, and therefore blend in perfectly with Parisian architecture.
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A Gallery of Le Petit Palais
(Click photo to enlarge)
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For the first time in the history of world’s fairs, beauty was prized over giant scale. This envisioned
monument would have to comply with the style of the neighborhood, and could not overshadow the other
pre-existing buildings. When in 1896, Alfred Picard, commissioner general of the new fair, launched
a competition to select the architects for the project, he had already settled in his mind on a long
avenue lined with not one but two elegant and refined palaces facing each other across this avenue to
form a powerful ensemble. One would house the new Beaux-Arts palace, while the other smaller one would
be given to the City of Paris for its most beautiful art collections as well as temporary exhibitions.
There were 49 proposals received for the Grand Palais, and 33 for the Petit Palais. It was the simplicity
and originality of Charles Girault’s submittal that won the large jury over. He was hired to oversee the
Grand Palais construction site and coordinate the work of the three selected architects, in addition to
which he was given the full commission for the Petit Palais.
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The Petit Palais
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Charles Girault let his imagination run wild. For the Petit Palais to find its place
in this immense context and not be overshadowed by the Grand Palais, it was imperative
he not opt for symmetry in his design.
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Armorial Bearings of Paris
(Click photo to enlarge)
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And so he chose a trapeze-shaped monument enhanced by a dome that resembled the one of the Invalides.
He added colonnades which mirrored the elegance of those featured on the Place de la Concorde buildings,
and arrayed his design around a central semicircular interior garden. The architect admired Italian art
and was greatly inspired by it in his interior design. The beautiful decor that you can still admire today
wasn’t painted until 1903. When the World’s Fair closed its doors in 1901, the Grand Palais and the Petit
Palais had welcomed 51 million visitors, to the amazement of Parisians. This proved beyond a doubt how much
admiration was felt for these architectural gems, worthy of the most sumptuous of monarchies, even though
France was no longer a monarchy but a Republic. Indeed, established artists were hired to paint images of
this republic that had fostered such progress, technical feats and great men. Of course, these paintings
were meant to glorify the City of Paris as well.
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The Palais des Beaux-Arts |
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On March 7, 1901, the City of Paris officially took possession of the Petit Palais. This brand new museum
was to house the art collection of the capital, but there were those pessimists who believed it didn’t
include any one piece worthy of such a beautiful building. This claim was put to rest in July 1902, when
a wealthy art collector from Rouen, Auguste Dutuit, died, leaving his entire collection to a very grateful
City of Paris. Then, 20 years later, another patron of the arts, Edward Tuck, enhanced the museum’s collection
with new paintings. This wealthy American diplomat had been living in Paris for many years and originally wanted
to donate his exceptional collection to the Louvre museum. However, this generous donor was lured into giving it
to the Petit Palais instead, where he was offered his very own gallery to arrange however he pleased. Ever since
then, various gifts and purchases have been added to the museum over the years, making it one of exceptional variety,
with more than 45,000 works which include 1,300 paintings, tapestries, and decorative objects ranging from antiquity
to the early 20th century, all part of the permanent collection.
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A Brand New Petit Palais
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In 1901, the World’s Fair closed its doors, the lights went out, the party was over,
and it was back to reality.
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The Garden of Le Petit Palais
(Click photo to enlarge)
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The painters who were to glorify the City of Paris had been selected, but the newly elected
city council was intent on reining in the squandering of public funds and the Petit Palais soon
found itself financially cut off, much to Girault’s dismay. The Petit Palais lost its luster and
eventually fell into a state of disrepair. One hundred years later, it was a museum in a sorry
condition indeed that was finally closed for the long needed necessary renovations. It re-opened
in June 2005, after four long years of intensive meticulous work, and what a marvel it is! The
visitor who climbs the steps to the beautiful great golden entrance door is in for quite a pleasant
surprise. The old 161,460 sq.ft. footprint has been turned into 236,810 sq.ft. of magnificent spacious
galleries full of light. No doubt, Charles Girault would be the happiest of architects. His Petit Palais,
completely transformed, has definitely recovered all its intended transparence and brightness. It is a
delightful place that now showcases the 1,300 works of art which found a permanent home there, and hosts
temporary exhibitions as well. Even the interior garden has finally been nursed back to the grace and
beauty of its heyday. When you enter this true haven of peace and serenity, it is hard to believe you
are standing in the heart of Paris.
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An Invitation to Travel... |
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Located between the Rond Point des Champs-Élysées and the Alexander III bridge, a few steps
from the Grand Palais, the Petit Palais will always remain for me a work of art and a dreamy
place that has no equal. The perfect harmony of its architecture has inspired many museums
throughout the world, while its successful renovation, its brightness, and its geographical
location right in the heart of the city make it a unique meeting spot for Paris lovers. Access
to the Mediterranean garden, the café and the permanent collections are free of charge from
Tuesday through Sunday. You can get there via subway, and get off at either the
Champs-Élysées-Clémenceau or the Concorde stop. You might show up preoccupied,
but you are sure to leave with a smile on your face...
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