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onjour ! France’s famous Chamonix valley that borders Switzerland and Italy has something
to offer everyone, whether you are an avid skier, hiker, or simply a mountain and nature
lover. Here is the story of the valley’s Mont Blanc and its surrounding grandiose and
enchanting glacier panoramas.
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| Chamonix - Mont Blanc |
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A Legend from Savoy
Gargantua was an easy-going and peaceful giant who lived in a castle on the bank of the
river Loire. He took off one day, headed for Italy by way of Mont Blanc, a fantastic site
that he had heard was at once feared and admired. « Chamoniards » – as the Chamonix valley
residents are known – called the local mountains « cursed ». They claimed that Satan himself
was buried in the glaciers where he was still kicking and screaming, thereby causing deadly
crevasses and avalanches. As Gargantua set out on his journey, each footstep of his triggered
little earthquakes. In no time, he had stepped over the river Rhone and entered the Savoy
region. His efforts were rewarded when he reached the summit of the Aravis pass: he was at
once stunned by the beauty of the surrounding landscape and the majestic stature of the Mont
Blanc massif. He then decided to hike around it and go on about his adventure. Giant or not,
he still had to face many obstacles. As he was going back down the face of the Aravis mountain
range, he was stopped by a huge boulder that blocked his path. The irritated giant kicked the
big rock with all his might and sent it flying more than eight leagues away. For the following
weeks, he continued his course through the region in this manner, kicking his way clear whenever
his path became obstructed. This is how he remodeled the regional landscape into its present-day
admirable shape...
The "Chamouny" Glacier
Not that long ago, the entire Rhone river region from Lyon to Annecy, by way of Megeve and Taninges,
was completely covered by an immense glacier. Ten thousand years ago, the Chamonix valley was
submerged underneath 3,300 feet of ice. Little by little the glacier receded but it still presented
an ominous threat at the turn of the 12th century when monks settled in the "Chamouny" convent. In
the Middle-Ages, especially severe winters brought about terrible avalanches and devastating floods -
caused by the spring snowmelt runoff - that swept down the valley without mercy. Chamoniards saw these
invasions as the result of an evil spell. They would organize pilgrimages and beseech bishops’ blessings
to ward off this dogged fate. The water level, however, didn’t drop significantly until the mid-19th
century. As late as 1850, it was still visible from the Chamonix valley, as the threat grew more and
more distant and the myth of the mountain was dispelled. Contrary to their past feelings towards it,
people now wanted to discover it. Rewards were even offered to find a route to its summit. In 1741,
Windham and Pococke, two Englishmen, set off to conquer the mountain that they could spot from Geneva.
There is no doubt that they were the pioneers of alpine tourism.
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The Fathers of Alpinism
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Windham and Pococke were the heroes of an adventure that was only just beginning. There were
many attempts to conquer the Mont Blanc summit back then, but they all failed inexorably. In
June 1786, Jacques Balmat, a chamoniard and crystal collector by trade, decided to give it a
try with a team of guides. Even though they were skilled and
seasoned mountaineers who were accustomed to the uncertainties of high altitude climbing, bad
weather and other challenges made them consider giving up, like many others before them. Jacques
Balmat was stubborn and continued his ascent, alone. Surprised by nightfall, he set up a
primitive camp. People were worried about him down in the valley, as no one had ever survived
overnight in a high altitude environment. It seemed the man was doomed. The next day, however,
he had to give up because of severe frostbite on his hands and so he appeared down in the valley
to the astonishment of the villagers. Doctor Paccard took care of him. He was fascinated by his
friend’s tale and decided to go back up the mountain with him. On August 7, 1786, the weather
was beautiful and the climbing conditions ideal. They took off in the afternoon, set up base
camp that night and at dawn the next morning, resumed their ascent. They could be seen with a
telescope from the valley reaching the summit together at the end of the day. They had done the
impossible: they conquered the invincible Mont Blanc. The “Cursed Mountain” had finally dispelled
its mystery...
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Chamoniards and First Tourists
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Originally, the Chamonix valley had nothing in common with the present-day idyllic and
cosmopolitan resort. The peasants lived mainly from cattle-rearing as the land was not
very fertile. The region itself was rather inhospitable with very limited access to it,
especially in winter. Chamoniards had to fight the elements daily, just to survive. From
the mid-19th century on, when the glacier started to recede significantly, living conditions
improved and the region could then open itself up to the outside world. Chamoniards were
flabbergasted when the first tourists appeared, whether they were scientists, writers or
very wealthy bankers from abroad. They themselves saw no interest in the mountain that they
considered to be, above all, a source of trouble, misery and death. What these foreigners
could possibly be seeking in such a hostile environment really confounded these robust and
rebellious peasants...
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The Visit of Napoleon III
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In 1860, when Savoy finally became part of France, the Chamonix valley had already been explored
by glaciologists, botanists, physicists, astronomers and other scientists, and the first tourists
had tentatively tested the snow. Around 1850, Chamonix had even become the birthplace of French
skiing... Emperor Napoleon III had wanted to visit this new region that everyone was talking about,
so roads leading to it were developed in his honor. However, bad weather rendered the journey dangerous
and the escorting guides were forced to carry the coach. The famous travelers, though slowed down
quite a bit, did finally arrive at their destination. The empress was delighted. Disregarding her
crinoline dress, and to the amazement of the awaiting public, she boldly stepped out of the coach
to get a better look at the beauty of the surrounding landscape. The emperor, clearly seeing the
economic potential of the area, took a personal interest in it and upgraded the roads. The mountain
finally became freely accessible. It was no longer perceived as a terrifying monster, but rather as
a peaceful and serene site. Even though pioneers had cleared the way a century earlier, it was only
after this imperial visit that tourism really took off, ever growing, even today.
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The Little Montenvers Train
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All of high-society then rushed to this mountainous region whose health benefits were much
praised the world over. Everyone had to climb these mountains, breath the fresh mountain air
and admire the awesome landscape. This new trend called for solidly-built men to guide the
tourists! Chamoniards were quick to catch on to this, realizing that their lives were about
to get much easier. They adapted themselves well to this new influx of curious people and got
organized in order to meet their expectations. The tourists deplored the poor condition of
the trails that were used by hikers, sedan-chairs or mule-riders, and even complained to the
guides about the clouds that hid the summits. It was sheer elation as everyone was awestruck
and fascinated by the mountain. The little town of Chamonix, previously shut off from the world,
underwent a metamorphosis in the mid-19th century as the railroad sped up development. In 1908,
a train was inaugurated that connected Chamonix (3,400 ft high) to Montenvers (6,275 ft high),
right on the fringe of the very famous Sea of Ice. Chamoniards rebelled against this ruthless
competition, but you can’t stop progress. That little red train still goes about its picturesque
journey today. This is an absolute must-do, a ride that guarantees enchantment for all!
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The Cable-Car of the Aiguille du Midi (“Midday Needle”)
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Ever since Antiquity, it has been possible to cross a river by stretching a stout hemp rope
between two solidly anchored cylinders on either bank of the river. The idea of connecting
the valley to the mountain summit in a similar manner naturally occurred from this. The zaniest
projects were just waiting for a better understanding of the properties of steel cables and
the invention of electricity, and along came New York’s electric tramway in 1832 and London’s
subway in 1863. The first funiculars got you up hills in Lyon and in Budapest. Then visionary
and daring engineers allowed the cabin to take off! One could climb Mont Washington in 1863,
or Vesuvius in 1880. Nothing could stop these inventors motivated by the technical challenge
of conquering nature! It wasn’t long before the idea of connecting the Chamonix valley to the
Aiguille du Midi (2.4 miles above sea level) was born. Wars were over and financial difficulties
overcome. All it took was the persistence of Dino Lora Totino, an Italian engineer, and the good
will of workers who didn’t suffer from acrophobia. In 1955 and 1956, the two end sections were
inaugurated. It finally became possible to fly over the Vallée Blanche (“White Valley”). The
rooftop of Europe was then accessible by air much to the delight of the amazed tourists.
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Invitation to Travel
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Chamonix lies at the foot of the largest skiable site in the world. In winter, this small
town becomes an international and cosmopolitan one of some 100,000 souls. English can be
heard as frequently as French... Chamonix hasn’t lost any of its charm of former days and is
still largely regarded as a dream vacation resort. If winter sports are not for you, there
are plenty of organized activities to keep you entertained, such as visiting the ice grotto
sculpted every year right out of the glacier. It portrays the life of 19th century mountain
dwellers in a mountain chalet setting. You can also go on wonderful summer or winter hikes
in the area or take the Mont Blanc Express, a typical red and white train that will guide
you towards close-by Switzerland. Such walks or rides are surely all a nature lover could
ever wish for!
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