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onjour!
This month We have chosen to dedicate this newsletter to the cathedral of Reims (Rheims), the most mythical one
in France, where the coronation of the French kings took place. It is so elegant and lightweight in its
appearance that its architecture is often described as stone lace. It has a truly magical history, and
with only a few exceptions, all the kings of France chose to be crowned there.
But before continuing, please remember that you can access and read all the newsletters already
published at http://www.francemonthly.com/
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St Nicaise, a Martyr Bishop
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Around the year 400, the bishop St Nicaise chose to build a cathedral dedicated to the Virgin Mary on
the remains of Gallo-Roman thermal baths located inside the city walls. This site was considered safe
from the threat of attacks, as indeed, the 5th century was a violent time marked by barbarian invasions.
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The Mythical Cathedral of Reims
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One such onslaught did eventually penetrate the city of Reims (Rheims), on December 14th, 406. St Nicaise rushed
to the doorway of his church to stand in the way of the invaders and protect the faithful who had sought
refuge inside. He was savagely decapitated. Legend has it that he continued to recite a psalm after he
was beheaded. Realizing they had committed a sacrilege, the terrified barbarians then fled the town.
Over the following centuries, the people of Reims never wavered in their devotion to the one who had
saved their city, and successive structures were built on the foundation where the altar that St Nicaise
had consecrated around 401 once stood.
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The Baptism of Clovis
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At the end of the 5th century, Gaul was divided into small rival kingdoms ruled by Germanic barbarians
who had been invading it ever since the 3rd century. They were the Alamans, Burgondes, Wisigoths, and
to the north, the Franks. Clovis, King of the Franks had married a charming young lady, Clotilde, who
only had one thing on her mind and that was to convert her husband to Christianity. Clovis, however,
felt that to renounce his Germanic gods of strength and fertility would be a rejection of what his
ancestors and his soldiers stood for. So, despite his love for his lady, he stood firm in his convictions.
It is said that one day, as he found himself in trouble on the battlefield, trying to push back the
Alamans at Tolbiac (near Cologne) in 496, he vowed that should he win, he would get baptized to thank
“Clotilde’s God”. That is when, seemingly miraculously, the Alamans hastily retreated. The victorious
King of the Franks kept his promise and was baptized with his warriors by the bishop Saint Rémi in Reims,
in front of a huge crowd. This gave birth to a new civilization founded on Christian principles, called
Francia.
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Recipe for October 2006
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Apple Rhubarb Tart
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The Many Ups and Downs of a Cathedral
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As the years went by, the cathedral built by St Nicaise became dilapidated. It was renovated and an extension
was even added, but then it was torn down and rebuilt once more. The structure that was eventually destroyed
by fire on May 6th, 1210, along with a large part of the city, had little to do with the original one. But
one year to the day after that disaster, the archbishop Abri de Humbert laid the first stone of the new cathedral
that we can still admire today, thanks to the unfading devotion and generosity of the faithful.
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The Cathedral of Reims, the South Side
(Click photo to enlarge)
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Sadly, however, there were more setbacks to come. Although the choir was finished in 1241, a lack of
resources, epidemics, and the Hundred Years War all took their toll on any substantial progress, even
though the work never did come to a complete stop. Determination and tenacity prevailed, and finally,
in 1481, the stone vessel was finished. The final touch would have been the addition of seven spires
that were designed to rise to a height of 558 ft. They were never built, as yet another fire devastated
the roof and the bell tower. The extent of the damage was such that there was not enough money left
after the necessary basic repairs to endow the cathedral with those huge spires that had been dreamed of.
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The Cathedral Where the Kings of France Were Crowned
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In 816, Louis the Debonaire became the first king who wanted to be crowned at the very same place where
Clovis had been baptized.
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The Stone Lace
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The archbishops of Reims were quick to take advantage of this to increase their
influence and declare themselves sole prelates authorized to bestow the royal unction.
After all, they were the guardians of the “Holy Flask”, a phial of chrism that according to legend in
Reims had been brought by a dove, symbol of the Holy Spirit, during the baptism of Clovis. Ever since
Henri I in 1027, and until Charles X in 1825, all the kings were crowned in Reims, except for Henri IV,
Napoleon I, and Louis XVIII. For many kings, the pompous ceremony took place in a cathedral under
construction. In 1328, the stones that were obstructing the palace courtyard had to be moved out of
the way for Philippe VI to get through. One century later, in July 1429, it was in front of a tower-less
cathedral that Joan of Arc formally accompanied Charles VII. Nonetheless, through all its varying stages
of restoration, the cathedral of Reims remained the only cathedral for the coronation of the kings of
France.
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Wonder of all Wonders
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The construction of the Reims cathedral began at the peak of the Gothic style, in 1211. The mastery of
the technique allowed the building of ever taller cathedrals which appeared weightless, airy and beautiful.
Despite the two centuries needed to bring the construction to an end, it seems that the many successive
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Shot from the Tourism Office
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project managers kept passing on the word to scrupulously respect the vision of the original architect,
thereby delivering a perfectly homogeneous and harmonious monument. All the lines seem to aspire to new
heights. Architecture and sculpture are closely tied, presenting the curious with facades rich in lessons
to be learned. Even to the simple passerby, this is a superb edifice that can not leave one indifferent.
The Reims cathedral clearly embodies the description of “stone lace”, which applies to its side facades
as well. They almost make you forget that the flying buttresses and abutments are really there to
stabilize the structure. At their very top, huge statues of angels with spread wings seem to be standing
guard between the sky and the earth.
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A True Haven of Peace |
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What is most striking as you enter the cathedral is the feeling of verticality and weightlessness. Your
first gaze is immediately drawn to the 125 ft high vault, then it drops in fascination towards the choir.
You will have to walk down 492 ft to reach the ambulatory, each step further enveloping you in a sense of
majesty and peace. The height of the structure over three levels greatly contributes to the experience,
as do the massive pillars which alternate with small fragile-looking columns, all supporting the weight
of the vault. Not a single surface is lacking in decoration. Even the back side of the western facade has
seven rows of superimposed niches which house no less than 52 statues. The architects definitely knew
how to play with solids and voids. Only a perfect mastery of building construction techniques could allow
one in the 13th century to achieve such a daring feat, and such a balancing act where architecture and
sculpture are intimately connected.
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Closed Choirs
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The interior of a cathedral in the Middle-Ages was quite different from what you see today.
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The Cathedral's Verticality and Weightlessness
(Click photo to enlarge)
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The edifice was divided into two sections. There was the sacred area comprised of the chancel and the ambulatory,
which fit tightly behind walls and was inaccessible to anyone who wasn’t a clergyman (with the exception
of certain privileged members of the nobility and a few very wealthy bourgeois). Indeed, up until the
middle of the 17th century, Bible reading was not available if not outright forbidden to lay people. It
was only in these closed chancels that sacred texts were revealed to the insiders. The people had to
gather in the profane area, the nave, where they could attend social gatherings and even trade fairs,
in addition to processions. The two universes were separated by a richly decorated partial wall, called
the rood screen. It wasn’t until almost the eve of the Revolution, or more precisely until the Council
of Trente, that it was decided the divine service had to be visible and therefore open to the lay people.
That is when all the rood screens were taken down.
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An Invitation to Travel... |
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Despite the 287 shells which hit the Reims cathedral during WWI bombardments, this monument of a rare
architectural purity still resembles the one that was built in the 13th century. It has been restored
over the years thanks to generous donations, in particular one made by American John D. Rockefeller, Jr. The
cathedral is so rich in history and sculptures that a guided visit is essential to fully understand this
marvelous “book of stone”. The tourist information office, just to the left of the cathedral, can help
you with your tour. You must also come back and view the cathedral at sunset: You will really fall in
love with it then. Finally, Reims (Rheims) is also in the heart of the Champagne region where many cellars welcome
visitors and gladly explain how their precious beverage became so famous in the whole world. You may
reread our newsletter about Champagne by going to: http://www.francemonthly.com/n/1103/index.php
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