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onjour, this month we have decided to dedicate the newsletter to a cosmopolitan city where sea and sun invite you
to idle along its shores and where petanque and pastis are indissociable from the surrounding countryside: Marseilles. But,
before continuing, please remember that you can
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| Marseilles |
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The Phocaean City : Marseilles
In the year 599 BC, the Phocaeans, wanting to establish an entry into Gaul, launched a maritime expedition lead by a man
named Protis. Arriving in the Bay of Marseilles, Protis donned his most beautiful garments and presented himself to the King, carrying beautiful gifts, in order to ask for his authorization to
found a city. However, on that precise day, the King was organizing an enormous feast in honor of his only daughter, Gyptis, for whom he wished to find a husband. Custom said that after
a scrumptious and solemn meal, where strangers could even partake, the young girl would appear, dressed in her most beautiful attire, and offer a cup to her chosen one. The beautiful girl
was immediately seduced by the handsome Protis and it is to him that she chose to give the cup. Somewhat surprised, the old King consented to the marriage and gave in dowry the area hoped
for by the newcomers. And that is how Massalia, the Phocaean City, future city of Marseilles, was established.
A Revolutionary Chant : The Marseillaise
Following the declaration of war with Austria, the mayor of Strasbourg asked
Claude Joseph Rouget de Lisle, captain of engineering and amateur musician, to compose a war song. During the night of April 24th to 25th,
1792 he wrote the "the War Chant for the Rhine Army". The melody became quite popular in the entire country and was played during a
patriotic banquet held in Marseilles. The Revolutionary forces from Marseilles sang it proudly upon their arrival in Paris and during their
invasion of the Tuileries Gardens on July 30th, 1792. The Parisians spontaneously baptized it "The Marseillaise". However, in sign of
recognition to the Republicans, it was forbidden during the reign of Napoleon, Louis Eighteenth and Napoleon the Third. Returned to its
honorary state after the revolution of 1830, it became the national anthem under the Third Republic. The irony of it all is that Rouget de
Lisle was in fact a royalist! He was imprisoned and barely escaped the guillotine for having refused to pledge allegiance to the new constitution.
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| Recipe
for October 2002 |
Marseillaise Monkfish |
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Cooking SOS ! If you
run into trouble with one of our recipes, send
an SOS e-mail to 911@francemonthly.com |
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| The Sardine That Blocked the Port Entrance |
"We" say, in France (understanding that the "we" excludes the people of Marseilles), that the
people of Marseilles have a tendency to exaggerate their stories. And it is stated, by these local people, that one day a sardine (the little fish!) blocked the
entrance to the port. But this is not said in jest, a slight distortion maybe! In 1778, the Viscount of Barras, officer of the marine infantry
regiment from Pondichery in India was captured by the British. Benefiting from special accords for prisoner of war exchanges, he embarked
the following year on a boat, named the "Sartine", which was not armed. To prevent potential attacks upon it, the captain would raise certain
cartel flags that the enemy would recognize. However, the rule was not respected, because on May 1st, 10 months after being at sea without
incident, a British war boat attacked the "Sartine" with two fatal canon volleys. The ship finished its trip and ran aground at the entrance to the
old port. It is therefore not a "sardine" that blocked the port of Marseilles but a ship named "La Sartine", on a beautiful spring day in 1780!
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| Notre
Dame de la Garde : City Emblem |
Towering
at 154 meters, Notre Dame de la Garde graciously dominates
the city and the port. In 1214, a first chapel, dedicated
to the Virgin Mary, was erected at the top of the
hill and rapidly became an object of increased admiration.
Three centuries later, in 1525, Francois the First
finds the perfect location to protect the city and
has a fort built in its place. Its original religious
calling is quickly substituted by a military one.
In 1864, the chief architect in charge of the construction
of the basilica irritated many Catholics from Marseilles.
Despite the fact that his name was fated, Esperandieu,
he was protestant. Today the basilica is the emblem
of the city of Marseilles; however his choice of a
Roman-Byzantine style continues to give rise to numerous
controversies. As a testimony to the rich diversity
of the city, a must see for any tourist, this monument
leaves no visitor indifferent. Topped by a statue
of the "Good Mother", 11.2 meters high and entirely
covered in gold leaf, the basilica dominates the fortifications
and welcomes home all sailors and pilgrims with kindness.
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| A Rhinoceros Pays Visit to Marseilles |
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Located in the middle of the
Bay of Marseilles, the Island of If was for many
years the ideal landmark for pirates and smugglers,
and the perfect paradise for fishermen and hunters.
In 1516, an unexpected visitor, coming from Rome,
had a short stay: a rhinoceros from India given
to Pope Leon the Tenth by the King of Portugal.
Totally unknown in Europe, the animal provoked much
curiosity. Even Francois the First, king of France,
traveled to see it. Unfortunately the animal could
not endure the weather. It died and was stuffed
before continuing his travel to his new owner. A
few years later, Francois the First ordered a fort
built on the island to protect the port’s access.
The people of Marseilles were very displeased with
this visible presence by the royal power on their
territory, but quickly understood the necessity
of it: the city now became virtually impossible
to penetrate from the sea. Also understanding that
it was equally impossible to escape from the island,
the castle was converted to a state prison as early
as 1580. |
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| A Mediterranean Alcatraz : A Special Prison |
Unless one was in solitary confinement, the "tenants" of the castle of If could communicate freely and stroll the terrace
of the dungeon unrestricted. Although the Knight of Anselme, accused of a plot against the monarchy, was found strangled in his cell in
1580, others, on the contrary enjoyed almost a happy life: the Count of Mirabeau, famous activist of the French Revolution, incarcerated
in 1774 at his father’s request, managed to cajole the commanding warden and seduce the canteen woman. However, one must not forget
the thousands of Protestants who perished on the island under terrible conditions. One must also mention that the Chateau of If became
famous thanks to a fictional character: Edmond Dantes. Victim of a plot, he was arrested and imprisoned at the chateau on the day of
his wedding. He succeeded in escaping 14 years later, thereby creating the myth of being the sole escapee from the chateau d’If, and
pursued his vengeance incessantly. We will stop here without continuing the story as we recommend the reading of one of the most famous
books, written in 1845 by Alexandre Dumas, also translated throughout the world and the inspiration for no less than 23 movies:
"The Count of Monte Christo."
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| Hollywood Made In Provence |
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It is impossible to describe Marseilles without mentioning one of its native sons: Marcel Pagnol. Although he was born in Aubagne in
1895, he described Provence and the spirited temperament of the people of Marseilles with such love and poetry that the locals adopted him
as one of theirs. At once playwright, novelist, poet, and film maker, he purchased in 1942 many hectares of scrubland near Marseilles in the
hopes of creating a Hollywood made in Provence. Unfortunately the tribulations of the war forced him to abandon the project. Many of his
movies have crossed the Atlantic and as he describes his childhood memories in "The Glory of my Father" or "The Castle of my Mother", he
is often compared to Mark Twain. Marcel Pagnol offers his readers and moviegoers warm and significant work translated throughout the
world. |
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| An Unforgettable Journey
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Sun, sea, cicadas, pastis, petanque, idleness, the qualities and activities of this rich city and region are almost too numerous to
describe. After visiting the "Good Mother", we recommend a journey out of the city to enjoy the magnificent rocky inlets. As you drive East along
the roads admiring the sights, you fill find yourself in a pretty little yachting harbor: Cassis. You may want to taste one of the local specialties,
bouillabaisse or fish soup. By foot you will adventure into wild creeks, where nature rightfully takes over its domain. Small piece of advice
however, do not visit the area in July or August: It may be crowded.
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