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onjour! After last month’s visit to Avignon, we have chosen to travel 31 miles
north-east and discover one of the prettiest cities in Provence: Vaison-la-Romaine. We hope to share with you our enthusiasm and give you the desire to visit this
region one day if you have not yet had a chance. But,
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| Vaison La Romaine |
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A Predestined Patron
Arriving in this charming city, your feet are easily guided to a historically charged universe.
Vaison is in fact the largest archeological site of Gallo-roman relics in France. When the first remains were originally discovered in the 19th Century,
its richness was under estimated. When a Monsieur Jacquet, noted anti-Bonapartist, unearthed the statue of Diadumenos and wished to sell it to the
Louvre, his political opinions assured him a categorical refusal from the Beaux Arts. In 1913, a statue of Apollo was exhumed. Kept with others in a town hall,
his indiscreet nudity was draped with a tri-color flag. However this did not deter the curiosity of many folk who regularly lifted the cloth to assure themselves that
Apollo had all his attributes! The excavations began in earnest in 1907, and received much needed help when a Swiss merchant named Burrus was intrigued by
the fact that in 37AD, "Sextius Afranius Burrus" (maybe an ancestor!?), Emperor Nero's private tutor was born in Vaison la Romaine. He decided to participate in the excavations.
His generosity allowed for more than 160 acres, 5-foot deep to be cleared.
A Modern Civilization
As we wander the site, we are astounded by the modernity of the dwellings, Hollywood like in
extravagance, and in which it seems we could have lived in despite being in ancient times. We enter in what were once luxurious homes, extravagantly
decorated with a square footage exceeding 20,000 to 30,000 square feet. We are astounded to compare without hesitation our kitchens to theirs, where running
water was already flowing. We learn, that in more prosperous households, young boys attended school, played with marbles (using nuts), while little girls
received schooling in the home with a private tutor instructing them in the duties of their future roles as housewives. They would use what our little girls of the
21st Century know as dolls, to learn how to dress themselves meticulously.
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| Recipe
for September 2002 |
Olive and Ham Cake |
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Cooking SOS ! If you
run into trouble with one of our recipes, send
an SOS e-mail to 911@francemonthly.com |
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| The Gallo-Roman "Fast-Food" |
The privilege of lighting a fire was strictly reserved for the wealthier people who paid a tax for this right.
Gallo-roman dwellings were many stories high, with the poorest living on the upper floors. Fires were feared and it is for this reason that lighting one was
controlled. Because of this, only the rich people could enjoy a hot meal. However, a solution was offered to the poorer folk. "Fast-food" like restaurants
were established. They could go and get a soup or prepared hot dish which undoubtedly warmed their hearts in winter even if these are somewhat mild
in this region.
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| The Resistance of a Bridge |
In Vaison-la-Romaine there is a very famous bridge, which stretches across the Ouveze, a small river usually
peaceful but impossible to bypass: the Gallo-roman Bridge. It is actually the largest ancient bridge and probably one of the most resistant. During
World War II, the Germans tried to bomb it, in vain. The following day the French Resistance fighters retorted by inscribing: "Mister Germans, the Roman Bridge says…..
(Censored)!" Along the centuries, the parapet was often taken away by violent floods, but the unique arch, solidly anchored in the slopes of the cliffs, has always
resisted. However one flood remains permanently and sadly etched in the Frenchmen’s minds. On September 22, 1992, after 4 hours of torrential rains, a giant
mudslide descended upon the city, reaching 56 feet high, carrying off the parapet as well as the facades of many abutting houses with a violent force. A part
of the city, including the archeological site, was flooded and damaged, and 43 lives were tragically lost on that day.
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| The Medieval City |
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If Vaison-la-Romaine is known
for its Gallo-Roman remains, its medieval city is
also notable. No matter which direction one arrives
from, the city said to be "High", is topped by a
castle that one’s eyes cannot escape. Through the
centuries, society was ever changing. From its early
roman opulence came decadence, followed by Vaison
becoming a Christian city, organizing itself around
the bishop who was the lord. During the 12th Century
a period of insecurity arose. The population, hounded
by thieves, retrieved from the plains and found
refuge in the rocks, protected by the ramparts and
under the protection of the lord, Count of Toulouse.
Vaison was only united to France in 1791. From this
era remains a charming village, with narrow cobblestone
roads and fountain decorated plazas; certainly a
part of the city not to be missed. |
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| Ventoux Mountain: Magic place |
Approximately 16 miles from Vaison-la-romaine lies the magical mountain of Provence: the Mont-Ventoux. 6,300 feet high, this mountain has
always been admired for the rich legends that surround it and in the spirit of the local inhabitants. It is why, during the 17th Century, a chapel was built
on its peak which rapidly became a place of pilgrimage. Long processions would climb carrying 20 pound candles in their arms. It is
thought that the plague was defeated this way. It also said that on the days when the skies are cloudy, one can see a washerwoman washing her clothes with
large strikes of her battledore. Her movements, it is thought, bring about storms and the winds of the Mistral. As soon as she is seen, the shepherds herd in their
flocks and at sea, the sailors tremble at her eerie apparition, laden with threats. But this spectacular mountain is also one of the most difficult stages of the Tour
de France bicycle race, one which has been won for many years by an American (Lance Armstrong), famous for his courage in many aspects.
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| The Tree of the Sun |
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Traveling in Provence is truly
enchanting: the continuous chirping of the cicadas,
the delicate perfume of lavender and the charming
spectacle of the olive trees along the sunny roads
accompany the visitor. The olive tree is an undeniable
part of the provincial scenery. It originated however
in Greece and was transplanted to France when the
Phocaean created Marseille, approximately 660 years
BC and brought with them the technique of making olive
oil. The olive tree in itself is a work of art with
its trunk and branches that seem molded by a sculptor
and its leaves all ruffled by the southern winds.
Provence is an ideal location for the production of
olives. The olive tree enjoys hot weather and dryness,
with mild winters, although it is generally resistant
to the cold. Each type of soil yields different shapes
of the olive tree. In the Gard region the tree is
in the shape of a ball, in the Heraut, a goblet, and
in the Var, a table. Harvesting the olives, that one
tree will produce abundantly for 150 years, also varies
according to its region: in the Nice area the olive
grower shakes down the large trees, in Corsica, he
places nets on the ground to catch the falling olives.
Olive oil is delicious, enhancing the taste of many
dishes and is particularly recommended for its dietary
benefits! |
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| A Picturesque Charm
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If you have the opportunity of visiting Provence, we especially recommend a stopover in Vaison-la-Romaine. You will savor the charms of a
Provencal city amidst the heart of a generous and green countryside and taste the amazing Provencal Cooking. Like the "Vaisonnais" and the local inhabitants of the region, we recommend a visit to
the picturesque market on Tuesday mornings. It has been held since 1532; time when having a market was a lordly right and having it on Tuesday a pontifical
choice. The ruler was at this time, the pope (We are so close from Avignon!). You will discover the perfumes and colors of a typical Provence.
Would you like to read more about Provence and France?
Click here.
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