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onjour!
We are pleased to dedicate our newsletter to Annecy, the "Venice of Savoie". The origins of this
charming town in the department of Haute-Savoie date back to 3000 B.C. Annecy and its region draw
tourists all summer or winter long, with incomparable charm, an exceptional amount of sunshine,
and hundreds of miles of slopes to please the avid skier.
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| Annecy, Venice of Savoie |
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Annecy: Venice of Savoie
The Thiou Canal is the river crossing Annecy that exudes such charm, it brings Venice to mind as you stroll
along its banks. This river actually played a key economic role as early as the Middle Ages, thanks to its
regular rate of flow that supplied the required hydraulic energy for the development of the craft industry
in the region. In 1870, when he was the Highway Department engineer, Sadi Carnot completed a system of gates
to regulate the flow of the Thiou, raise the level of the lake, and thus facilitate the navigation of the
merchant ships so vital to the economy of the city. In 1887, Sadi Carnot became President of the French Republic!
The Cleanest Lake in Europe!
The lake of Annecy, framed by mountains, appeared 18,000 years ago and covers 10.5 square miles, with an
average depth of 135 ft. Today, it is one of the cleanest lakes in the world and home to a wide range of
wildlife which never ceases to delight the amateur fishermen. In the past, all the dirty water from the
surrounding cities was dumped into it, and the extremely high level of pollution became a significant threat
to the health of the inhabitants. In 1962, backed by a huge investment of labor and capital, the first efforts
to clean the water and dispose of the waste got underway. Other obstacles appeared, beyond the technical
difficulty of such an enterprise. A few companies and hotels around the lake did not want to pay their share
of the cost to develop a new sewer system, and so divers were sent underwater to plug all the raw sewerage
outlets from these uncooperative businesses into the lake. Once disconnected from any sewer system, they had
no choice but to abide by the new regulations and let the necessary work begin at once. Today, the lake
receives only rain and spring water, and the inhabitants of Annecy are happy to drink it (after a simple
anti-bacteriological treatment). The purification of the lake and the protection of it against any type of
pollution have been a remarkable success, and are cited as examples all over the world. It has even become
a very popular diving site. If you are lucky enough to be in Annecy the first weekend of August, you will
be able to attend the gorgeous fireworks display organized every year to celebrate the lake.
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| Recipe
for September 2001 |
La Tartiflette |
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Cooking SOS ! If you
run into trouble with one of our recipes, send
an SOS e-mail to 911@francemonthly.com |
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A Turbulent History... |
Due to its geographical location at the foot of the Alps (between Lyon and Chamonix), the history of
Annecy has been rather turbulent as it has suffered many invasions over the centuries. Through marriages,
inheritances and sales over time, Annecy became the property of the Count of Geneva, and later that of
the Count of Savoie. Annecy and the Savoie region then found themselves, in turn, under Sicilian, Sardinian,
Spanish and Austrian rule. In 1860, to end Austrian domination, the King of Sardinia asked France for military
aid and offered the Savoie region (as well as Nice) to Napoleon III in return. The Savoyards, enticed by
the power of a government that could guarantee order, voted overwhelmingly for the unification of their
region with the French Empire in April of the same year. Once French, Savoie was divided into 2 departments
for administrative purposes: Haute-Savoie and Savoie, with Annecy and Chambery as their respective capitals.
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The Little Chimney Sweeper: Emblem of Savoie. |
In the 19th century, the level of poverty in France was so high that the children of Savoie born into the
most impoverished families were recruited by "master chimney sweepers" who had become too big to climb into
chimney flues themselves. They would leave in the fall (some as young as 6 years old), traveling French roads
on foot until the following year when the cold had subsided. The workday was very long, averaging 14 hours,
and the work conditions were dreadful, often endangering the lives of these little workers. They didn’t
receive any direct pay, rather the master sweepers would give their families a lump sum, equivalent to
the price of a calf, upon their return. Fortunately, the French child labor laws of 1874 and 1892 put a
stop to this iniquitous practice, but the little chimney sweeper remained the emblem of Savoie.
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Do You Know How to Forecast the Weather Looking at the Mountain? |
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The Mont-Blanc is the rooftop of Europe (15,775 ft-high as measured in 2001), located about 30 miles from
Annecy. The inhabitants will forecast the weather simply by looking at its summit and the shape of the
surrounding clouds:
- If the Mont-Blanc "put his hat on", a storm is coming. The "hat" is the formation of clouds crowning the mountain top.
- If the Mont-Blanc "is smoking its pipe", strong winds are coming. The smoke of the pipe is actually the snow on
the summit being blown right and left by the high-altitude wind!
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The First Love of Jean-Jacques Rousseau |
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The famous philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau found years of happiness in Annecy, by the side of his patron,
Madame de Warrens. Jean-Jacques Rousseau was 16 years old and Madame de Warrens 29, when they first met.
The adolescent immediately fell in love with this lady he would first call "mother", and who would later
become his mistress. "I wish I could surround this happy place with a gold baluster" he wrote in his
"Confessions", describing the memorable site of their encounter. In 1928, the year of the bicentennial
anniversary of their meeting, a gold baluster was installed around that location, #10 rue Jean-Jacques
Rousseau, to fulfill the philosopher's wish. Jean-Jacques Rousseau was no doubt the most passionate promoter
of democracy. He proclaimed his views criticizing social inequalities during the Age of Enlightenment.
Many legislative constitutions, including the American one, took inspiration from his work in the drafting
of democratic principles.
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The “Palais de l’Ile” (or Palace on the Island)
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Mentioning every monument in Annecy would be very difficult, there are so many of them.
However, we must point out the Palais de l'Ile, built in 1132 right in the center of the Thiou, the famous
canal in Annecy. It is definitely the most distinctive monument of the city, and is impossible to miss.
Due to its triangular shape, it reminds the visitor of the prow of a galley anchored in the river. It was
the primary residence of the Lord of Annecy as early as the 12th century, and later became the Count of
Geneva’s administrative headquarters, then alternately a courthouse, the Mint, and finally a jail, from
the Middle Ages until 1865 and once again during World War II.
The Palais de l'Ile was classified as a Historical Monument in 1900, and today houses a very popular
local history museum. It is one of the most photographed monuments in France!
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Annecy: The Town with Two Gates
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You can enter the city either through the Ste Claire Gate, arriving from the west, or through the Perriere
Gate, from the south. If only these gates could talk... The first one is famous for its ancient clock and its
bell that has been regulating the life of the area for centuries. The King of France Henri IV, followed by
his court, entered through this gate into Annecy on October 5, 1600, without any resistance whatsoever from
the Duke of Geneva. Humiliated, the inhabitants of Annecy snubbed this conqueror without merit, and let Henri
IV cross the town through deserted streets to get to the castle. In normal times, the Ste Claire Gate was
the place taxes were collected on incoming goods. In times of plague, however, it remained closed to prevent
travelers from entering the city. The French army chose the Perriere Gate when it invaded Annecy in August 17, 1691.
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Invitation to Travel
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Although history definitely left its mark on Annecy, the regional capital was kept intact. Still dominated by
its imposing 12th century castle-museum, it remains an obvious choice for tourists to visit. In 1795, capital
from Geneva allowed the successful development of the textile industry in Annecy, making it by the mid-19th
century the biggest cotton manufacturing center in the kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia. Today, Annecy’s wealth
comes mainly from tourism, due to the exceptional beauty of the city and its surroundings. Another attraction
is Annecy’s annual International Cartoon Festival, which has been enjoying ever-growing success for more than
forty years, in early June. Finally, you can enjoy strolling through the pedestrian-friendly old part of town
and discover its large colorful market, held every Tuesday ever since...1170!
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