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onjour! We have dedicated our summer
newsletter to one of the many gems of Touraine, (250 Kilometers south-west of Paris).
Nestled on the River Cher, the Chenonceau Castle is nicknamed the “Castle of Ladies”,
as it is the fruit of the passion and ambition of a long history of strong, loving, and
willing women.
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| Chenonceau Castle |
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A Humble Beginning
The first owners of a castle built at the beginning of the thirteenth century could not have imagined the
fabulous destiny their domain would have in the following centuries. The Marques, simple equestrians from
the Auvergne region, had a relatively modest dwelling built on the site. The river traffic on the Cher was
abundant, and the new lord of Chenonceau chose the right bank of the Loire tributary, as he knew the
importance of controlling the passage of goods such as building materials, salt, wine and fodder.
The house was built in the typical square pattern, with four round towers in each corner: a classical medieval home.
Its purpose was to insure the protection of its inhabitants and to come to the aid of the nearby city of Tours in an
era where conflicts between lords and plunderers was frequent. Unfortunately, years of treason, destruction,
and financial mismanagement devastated the Marques, and they lost their domain after many trials and sufferings.
The First Woman of Chenonceau: Katherine Bohier
As the General of finances of the kingdom in 1513, Thomas Bohier was a rich and noble man, and the proud new owner of the castle of Chenonceau. Together, Thomas and Katherine Bohier razed the original
house and built a pavilion directly across the bed of the Cher River. This architectural feat is the first of many
original features of the castle that can still be seen today. As his work required frequent travel, Thomas Bohier was
often absent, and it was up to his wife Katherine to supervise the work on the castle. Katherine proved to be a very adept
contractor and gave the castle its first feminine touch, while also adding the splendor worthy of her husband’s noble
position in the kingdom. Her eccentric plans called for a long hallway from which the various apartments opened, with
many small towers used as closets or bathrooms. Instead of the traditional circular staircase of the day, she designed
a straight staircase bathed in light, thanks to the large openings in the wall onto the river Cher. The castle remained
in the Bohier family until the time of Francois the First, who was seduced by the castle’s original features, and did
not miss the opportunity to repossess it from Thomas and Katherine’s heir, Antoine, who had to relinquish the castle to
repay a debt and avoid ruin.
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| Recipe
for August 2003 |
Tuna Eggs |
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Cooking SOS !
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911@FranceMonthly.com
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The Second Lady of the Castle: Diane de Poitiers
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At the time of the death of François the First, Diane de Poitiers was the widow of
the grand seneschal of France, Louis de Brézé. She was also a lady-in-waiting of
Queen Catherine of Medicis, and most notably, the favorite concubine of the heir
apparent, Henri the Second. Although twenty years younger, Henri was enthralled by
the beauty of his mistress and was madly in love. He showered her with gifts, dressed
her in jewels and offered her Chenonceau. An excellent businessperson and manager,
Diane transformed the domain that she loved. Having visited the castle previously
for hunting, she built a bridge across the Cher to expand the hunting range.
A horticulturalist at heart, she had grandiose Italian gardens drawn on the right
embankment. She even dreamt of creating a gallery above the river, but ran out of money.
Orchards, gardens and vines were planted which soon became profitable, but this was not
enough for her expensive tastes. To subsidize her plans, Henri the Second implemented
a tax on anyone ringing the churches' bell, and all proceeds went directly to his
mistress. But Henri was accidentally killed during a tournament in 1559. His widow,
Catherine of Medicis, became Regent of France and immediately reclaimed the castle
she believed was rightfully hers.
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Number Three: Catherine de Medicis
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After years of a self-effacing lifestyle, Italian born Catherine de Medicis not only became “master” of her domain,
but, due to her son’s young age, she also became ruler of France. Chenonceau was her haven of peace -- far from Paris
and the conflicts that divided the country. It was also the symbol of her victory over her bitter rival; Diane de Poitiers.
She lavished the castle in architectural and ornamental details that remain today, and enlarged the Italian gardens.
She built the gallery above the river that Diane de Poitiers dreamed of, but she enhanced the design into a two-story
gallery to adequately welcome all the kings, princes, courtiers, and over 300 damsels that made up her excessive entourage.
For nearly a quarter of a century Catherine did not tire of her revenge, and her sumptuous galas and dubious moral
standards within the castle become famous.
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The Fourth Lady: Louise de Lorraine
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The wife of Henry the Third -- third son of Catherine of Medicis -- Louise of Lorraine
inherited Chenonceau upon the death of the queen mother in 1587. All the architectural expansions were finished,
but she continued to take care of the castle to the best of her ability. Louise de Lorraine was a pious, quiet woman.
She married Henry the Third in true love and remained loyal to him despite is infamous indiscretions with his little
“darlings”. When the king was assassinated in 1589, Louise de Lorraine was devastated and found refuge in prayer.
Chenonceau became a religious retreat. She lived there as a hermit surrounded by nuns. Always wearing white --
the color of royal mourning -- she gave of her fortune to local charity and became known as “the white lady of Chenonceau”.
One of the only changes she made to the castle was to her room, which she painted in black and covered with tears, feathers,
bones and silver gravediggers instruments. In the end she expired as she had lived, with sad indifference. Chenonceau fell
into a dull period of disinterest for more than a century.
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Madame Dupin Saves the Castle |
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Mr. Dupin, a very proud and rich man, was a farmer responsible for the collection of taxes for the kingdom. His wife, Madame Dupin, was passionate about art, and ran a prestigious Parisian salon for some of the best-known writers, poets and philosophers of the “Century of Light” -- Voltaire, Marivaux, Montesquieu and Diderot frequently met there. Looking for a retreat worthy of their name and fortune, Mr. and Mrs. Dupin bought the forgotten Chenonceau in 1733. To escape the whirlwind of Paris, the couple often came to Chenonceau to entertain, and Madame Dupin certainly knew how to entertain! It was here that their son’s private tutor Jean-Jacques Rousseau wrote: “One ate very well there. I became as fat as a monk!” Unfortunately, the French Revolution disturbed this tranquility, and Madame Dupin struggled to keep her domain. She had the archives of the castle hidden and wood stockpiled in the chapel to protect it from the revolutionaries. As the revolutionaries were positioned to destroy the castle, Madame Dupin wisely informed them that the castle was the only way to cross the river Cher, and offered that the bridge be open to all. Thus, the castle was saved thanks to Madame Dupin.
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An Extraordinary Destiny
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Just when it seemed that the castle had long been forgotten, it was once again a woman who attempted to revive it.
Mrs. Wilson, a British millionaire, bought the castle in 1864. Passionate about history, she was fascinated by the
beauty of the castle and began to restore it. Unfortunately, she spent her fortune before being able to achieve her
dream. In 1889, the castle was seized and sold at auction. Heir to an illustrious dynasty of chocolate makers,
the Menier family purchased it and are still the proud owners today. During the First World War, Gaston Menier,
son of the first owner, transformed the large Catherine de Medicis gallery into a hospital to treat wounded soldiers
from the front lines. Between 1940 and 1942, the castle also had a remarkable situation. The entrance to the castle
was on occupied territory, while the south gate was in the free zone. Many resistant fighters entered one door
and exited free, as if by miracle!
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Built, embellished, expanded and saved by remarkable women; Chenonceau is one of the most beautiful symbols of the French
Renaissance. As it drifts along its quiet days -- just as the river it crosses -- the Castle of Ladies is one of the best
loved monuments by visitors to France. A voyage into a passionate past that one should not miss!
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