 |
|
|
|
|
onjour!
There are many must-see magical places tucked away in France. Some of them were still hard to
access as recently as a few years ago, such as the Aveyron region, where the most famous cheese
of France is made. However, with the building of the tallest bridge in the world, the doors to
this equally beautiful and wild area are now swung open. This journey takes us across the Millau
Viaduct, for a gastronomic stop in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, the tiny village whose name evokes
delight in the mind of the finest gourmets.
But before continuing, please remember that you can access and read all the newsletters already
published at http://www.francemonthly.com/
|
 |
 |
|
The Legend of Roquefort
|
Legend tells the wonderful story of a young shepherd who was keeping his sheep at the foot
of the Massif de Combalou. As he was resting in a cave, just about to savor a delicious piece
of rye bread with some sheep cheese on top,
|
 |
| |
Caves of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon
(Click photo to enlarge)
|
he saw a charming shepherdess go by. He quickly stuck his meal in a corner of the cave
to run after the pretty woman, and forgot all about it. The young birdbrain came across his
bread a couple of lunar months later. He noticed that as it had molded, the bread had turned
blue and the piece of sheep cheese as well had been covered with bluish-green veins. As he
was starving, he sank his teeth into it despite the strong odor the cheese was releasing and,
mind you, found the delicacy much to his liking. Thus, Penicillium roqueforti came to be,
born of a mysterious alchemy between the humidity and natural ventilation of a cave on a piece
of dry bread. As if by magic, Roquefort cheese came to life.
|
|
|
|
Roquefort, King of Cheeses
|
|
As early as 3500 B.C., Roquefort’s predecessor was already very much appreciated. At the
beginning of our era, Romans made a big thing of this delicately flavored treat, although
it was not yet called Roquefort. It wasn’t until about the year 400, a dark period in history
when pillagers were spreading terror in the countryside, that a small town nestled at the foot
of the mountain Combalou set up defensive fortifications. Originally called "Roca Forta"
("Strong Fortress" in Latin), the small village already known for its precious bluish cheese,
was later rebaptized "Roquefort-sur-Soulzon". Over the centuries, the cheese captivated the
greatest men of the kingdom of France and Navarre: Charlemagne, François I, Louis XIV all
relished it, while famous artists and writers such as Rabelais continuously praised its
qualities. Diderot stated that "Roquefort cheese is indisputably the finest cheese in Europe".
Brillat-Savarin, a member of the Constituent Assembly during the French Revolution and a fine
gourmet himself, stated that a "dinner without Roquefort is like a beautiful woman missing
an eye", whereas Casanova proclaimed without hesitation that Roquefort "had the power to restore
love and bring to maturity a budding love". Roquefort is indisputably the King of Cheeses.
|
|
|
Recipe for July 2005
|
|
|
|
Roquefort Tart
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
A Cheese of the Land
|
|
| |
On August 31st, 1666, Roquefort cheese acquired its "lettres de noblesse"
(letters patent of nobility) once and for all. Indeed, a ruling of the Parliament in
Toulouse decreed that only the cheese coming from the natural caves of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon
 |
|
Museum, Société des Caves in Roquefort
(Click photo to enlarge)
|
|
was genuine. Therefore, any cheese coming from any other place was declared counterfeit.
This news was solemnly proclaimed in all the towns and countryside under the jurisdiction of
Toulouse. To make an authentic Roquefort cheese, one must use the particularly rich milk of the
Lacaune breed of sheep, and sow Penicillium roqueforti spores in the middle of the curd to give
it that bluish color and that very specific aroma. Maturing of the cheese must take place in
rock cellars built into the heart of the mountain Combalou and nowhere else. All is then set for
the magic to take place, as the cheese develops a subtle scent after ripening, much to the
enjoyment of the gourmet. This was the very first time in France that a law was passed to protect
the place of origin and the methods of fabrication of a product. Later, in 1725, Roquefort became
the first cheese to receive the prestigious A.O.C. label ("Appelation d’Origine Contrôlée", or
Protected Designation of Origin), the acronym that guarantees the origin of any quality product
in France.
|
|
|
|
| |
Magic that Leaves Nothing to Chance
|
|
| |
As much as we would like to believe that this wonderful cheese magically evolves into its final
stage, reality is something else, as nothing is left to chance. The controls are meticulous and
constant all during the fabrication and maturing of the cheese. It all starts with the long
selection process of the prized sheep livestock that must be exclusively of the Lacaune breed.
|
 |
Sheep livestock in Aveyron
(Click photo to enlarge)
|
The shepherds take great care of these Lacaune sheep that produce such a rich yet delicate milk.
About 12 liters of sheep’s raw whole milk are needed to make a 5.75 lb Roquefort. The milk is
analyzed daily to check its quality. Heated up, then sowed with the precious Penicillium roqueforti,
it transforms itself into curd. Once cut, drained, and salted, the cheeses are labeled so that
they can be tracked at any time for a quality check. They are then poked with 40 or so holes to
assure the progressive growth of the Penicillium roqueforti throughout, and laid on oak shelves
before being rigorously warehoused in the cellars. The transformation will occur in the darkness,
under the watchful eye of the "maître affineur" (literally, a "master cheese ager"). This magician
will tirelessly sample the cheese in the making, estimate the flexibility of the paste, evaluate
the intensity of the Penicillium roqueforti with a cheese taster. He knows all too well that he
holds the destiny of Roquefort in his hands, and nothing gets past him.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
The Maturing of the Cheese
|
|
| |
The blocks of Roquefort are definitely in good hands, but the "maître affineur" is
 |
|
Fleurines
(Click photo to enlarge)
|
not alone in successfully carrying out this extraordinary metamorphosis.
Mother Nature is his valued ally. More than 2 million years ago, erosion led the mountain
Combalou to subside. Tons of boulders piled up on top of each other, leaving behind an underground
network of natural cavities in the process. Constantly fresh and temperate air flows through these
fissures and faults – called "fleurines": it is right at their openings that the cellars where the
blocks of Roquefort rest and mature are laid out, sometimes on more than 11 levels. The master of
the cellar is able to adjust the opening of these cavities to set the temperature and humidity of
the caves so that the cheese can transform itself gradually. At least 3 months are necessary for
the cheese to mature after a slow metamorphosis, take on its bluish color, and release its delicate
aroma. This delicious treat is the result of perfect harmony between man’s meticulous work and nature’s
constant generosity.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
| |
The Highest Bridge in the World |
|
| |
To reach the village of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon in the very secretive department of Aveyron,
you most likely will have to take a bridge that fell from the sky... and puts an end to the
familiar nightmare. No more endless traffic jams for the vacationers, no more long hours of
waiting in the summer for the hellish congested crossing by the town of Millau. Welcome to
the heavenly feat which is the Viaduct of Millau! It is a real masterpiece. The bridge’s
designers were able to perfectly reconcile high technology, respect for the environment, and
perfect aesthetics. The viaduct opened to traffic on December 16, 2004, 3 years to the day
after the first stone was laid. Since then, it has welcomed up to 8,000 cars a day, but it is
expected that number will reach 30,000 this summer 2005. The spectacle is extraordinary, as
much for its grandiose scale as for the beauty of the landscape that reveals itself under
your eyes as you cross over this true work of art. The viaduct stands as a genuine testimonial
to modern times and is definitely worth the detour, you will be amazed!
|
|
|
| |
Taller than the Eiffel Tower
|
|
| |
About 1,125 feet at its highest point, it exceeds the spires of Notre-Dame in Paris. It is
supported by piers up to 787 ft tall, and is made of over 3 million cubic feet of concrete
and 36,000 metric tons of steel. The viaduct is held in place by 7 steel pylons 295 ft tall
each, that give one the impression that it is hanging in the air.
The British architect Lord Norman Foster and more than 500 workers from all over Europe
 |
|
The Viaduc of Millau
(Click photo to enlarge)
|
applied their skills with great care to achieve this project, meeting his famous aesthetic
and safety standards of perfection. They had at their disposal the most sophisticated materials
and the most modern means. In particular, American satellites and GPS (Global Positioning System)
signals allowed markers to be put up as the work progressed. This enabled the workers to precisely
place each individual construction element, and have them join in a perfect fit - within fractions
of an inch - in the end. The 8,071 ft long roadway has a slight slope of 3% and a quasi-undetectable
curve with a 1.86-mile radius. All criteria have been carefully
studied for the viaduct to withstand possible seismic activity and extreme meteorological conditions
for centuries to come.
|
|
|
|
| |
An Invitation to Travel... |
|
| |
If you go to Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, you will no doubt marvel at this grandiose setting often
called "the rocky kingdom of Roquefort". Once in the heart of the village, among the many
Roquefort cheesemakers, we recommend that you visit the
"Société" cellars.
You will discover the story of the
village, through a multimedia show, and learn the various steps in the making of Roquefort.
This leisurely lesson always ends with the tasting of a few variants of the famous cheese.
Finally, do not miss the guided tour of the Millau Viaduct construction site
(office.tourisme.millau@wanadoo.fr) which takes about an hour and a half. You will be
fascinated by the details of the building of this magnificent structure that captivated
millions of French people.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
