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onjour! We have continued our southern
route and decided to stop in one of the most charming cities
of Provence, where life follows the rhythms of the crickets’
song and the heat of the sun and where history and the arts
rule side by side in perfect harmony: Avignon! But before
continuing, please remember that you can access and read all the newsletters already
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Avignon: Capital of the Christian World
The rock of Avignon seems to have been inhabited since the earliest times; situated at the junction of the Rhone and the Durance
rivers, its perfect location makes it an ideal city for a natural refuge, easy to defend and ideal for commercial traffic.
Avignon therefore quickly becomes a prosperous city enjoying certain autonomy. During the Fourteenth Century, the
city belongs to the Count of Provence, Charles the Second of Anjou, King of Naples and loyal vassal of the Church of
Rome. The Venaissin County located near Avignon has been, since the Thirteenth Century, a papal property thereby
insuring a stable and peaceful city. At this time in Rome, as rival factions are tearing each other apart, popes do not have
any governing control, and in Italy, cities and small feudal states are in constant conflicts. Avignon appears to be the
ideal city to welcome the future popes. 7 popes in all will eventually succeed one another in Avignon, making it the
capital of the Christian world.
Two Popes in Exile
Clement the Fifth is the first pope to reign from
Avignon: he is chosen for his diplomatic qualities. It was thought that his mediation talents would help improve the
relationships between the King of France, Philippe the Good and the King of England, in hope of uniting them for
a new crusade to the Orient, a wild dream adopted by the papacy of the Fourteenth Century. Although the difficult
times in Italy lead the pope to settle in Avignon, he still deems himself in exile and longs to return to Rome in the near
future. For this reason, very few changes will be made to the city and no undertakings will be launched. After two years
of negotiations due to numerous disagreements among cardinals, the next pope is chosen, John the Twenty-Second. Due to his advanced
age it is thought that his reign will be short lived. In fact, against all likelihood, he remains pope for 18 years. He enjoys his
years in Avignon having been a bishop there a few years prior. Pope John reigns fruitfully especially due to his reform of the
"papacy taxation", and accumulates quite an amount in the coffers, which will permit his successor to build the first part of the
Pontifical Palace, what is now known as the "Old Palace".
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| Recipe
for Summer 2002 |
Fresh Salad |
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Cooking SOS ! If you
run into trouble with one of our recipes, send
an SOS e-mail to 911@francemonthly.com |
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| Two Diametrically Opposed Popes |
As soon as Benoit the Twelfth is crowned pope, and always in hope of returning to Rome,
but aware of the many difficulties, he vows to make his stay in Avignon a productful one. Loyal Cistercian
(see our newsletter about Burgundy), he wants to fight
against the excesses of the church and bring the religious orders to their original objectives of poverty and sobriety. In light of this, he
has an immense structure built, more like a fortified convent than a palace. Because of the abundant treasures accumulated by the
church and the fact that Avignon is geographically located to facilitate pillage and regular robbery, he builds the structure to protect
itself. This structure, of Roman style, sober in appearance, similar to its builder, is the perfect solution to the set objective as it is
literally inviolable.
If the first three popes come form humble beginnings, the same cannot be said for the next one.
Clement the Sixth is from noble heritage and wishes to be acknowledged as such. He has the
second part of the palace built, in a gothic style, much more refined, called the "New Palace",
where many grand receptions take place, where artists, writers and savants enjoy each others
company. Despite the fact that these excesses as well as expenses linked to the wars in Italy
deplete the pontifical treasure, Clement the Sixth is admired by his contemporaries and his era
most likely marks the apogee of the Avignon papacy. Unfortunately his pontificate is plunged
into mourning because of the Black Death that will kill 2/3 of the population of Avignon and its
surroundings in 1348.
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| A Luxurious Crowning |
Despite surrounding misery, frequent epidemics
and the terrible tragedy of the Black Plague, thought to have come from China, but undoubtedly spread due to lack
of proper hygiene, unpaved roads and dirty waters, the pope and his court live in luxury.
Sumptuous receptions take place, succeeded by elaborate banquets interspersed with shows, tournaments and dances.
In spite of the fact that the menu was never discovered for the crowning of Clement the Sixth, it is known that these
quantities were purchased: 118 cattle, 1023 sheep, 101 calves, 914 kids, 60 pigs, 6,900kg of lard, 1500 capons, 3043 hens,
7428 chickens, 1195 geese, 50,000 pies, 600kg of almonds, 200kg of sugar, 39,980 eggs, 95,000 9 ounce breads, etc. One must
remember that in this era only popes had the luxury of their own personal dishes and silverware made of gold and ivory; the guest,
all men, were however quite happy to share their plates and goblets and to use their fingers while enjoying the fine food.
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| The Great Schism |
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Innocent the Sixth has the pontifical palace finished and builds
a new wall surrounding the city to protect it. Following him, Urban the Fifth attempts to return the
pontificate to Rome, but in vain. Finally Gregory the Eleventh succeeds and returns to Rome in 1367
but the end of his reign is marked by many troubles and important tensions amidst the Catholic Church.
Two clans will arise each supporting either Rome or Avignon. At Gregory’s death, the conclave of 1378
elects an Italian archbishop, Urban the Sixth. The French cardinals are very unhappy with this selection and
declare the election null naming a new pontiff, Clement the Seventh, who chooses to reside in Avignon. He is
deemed to be the anti-pope and the Christian world is divided. The pope and the anti-pope vow to destruct
each other. It is only in 1414 that the problem is solved by the Council of Constance and the election of Martin
the Fifth, but Avignon has lost its title of capital of Christianity. However, until the French Revolution, Avignon
remains a property of Rome, which is governed by legates named by the pope. Finally, in 1791, the city is returned
to France. From these many centuries the city has kept the immense and fabulous palace, built in less than 20 years,
with a surface area of more than 150,000 square feet, ramparts that are bout 3 miles long and which surround and protect the city, numerous churches
and monuments that we can visit and enjoy. |
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| Lodging Crisis |
As soon as the popes come to live in Avignon, they encounter a serious crisis. In fact,
during the Middle Ages, the papacy court is the most important in the world, and the pope always has
a following which includes business people, lawyers, merchants, servants and of course cardinals, who
themselves travel with their personal court. Housing all these people is not an easy feat. Avignon already
is a populated city with 5000 inhabitants, but finds itself suddenly increased by tens of thousands. It is
therefore decided to expel certain groups and parties with certain compensations and exemption of taxes.
Some folks are placed in cabins quickly built in the streets of the city, on the ramparts or even in the
cemeteries. Due to the demand, rental prices are exorbitant and popes often threaten their bishops with
excommunication if they refuse to pay their rent.
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| The Saint-Benezet Bridge |
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It is impossible not to mention Avignon without its famous legend linked to
the bridge made famous by the song known the world over: "Sur le Pont d’Avignon…"
Whilst a young shepherd guards his sheep he hears a voice ordering him to Avignon where
he is to build a bridge that will cross the Rhone River. In route the young shepherd meets an
angel who guides him to the bishop of Avignon. The young man tries in vain to convince the
skeptical bishop of his mission and succeeds after lifting a rock that only 30 men could have
lifted and places it on the river’s shore. The crowd that has gathered is amazed and it is decide
that the bridge will be built. More than 5000 gold coins are collected and a bridge of 22 arches,
900 meters in length is constructed that will unite Avignon to its opposite shore, the kingdom of
France. Unfortunately the bridge is 3/4 destroyed by Louis the Seventh during a siege of Avignon,
and when reconstructed suffers numerous floods along the Rhone River at which time it is finally
determined that its maintenance is too costly. Tradition claims that it is "on" one of the arches
of the ruined bridge that an open air dance was held and where the famous song would have
originated. But actually it is under (sous) the bridge that one danced and not on
(sur) it: "Sur le pont d’Avignon, on y danse, on y danse; sur le pont d’Avignon, on y danse
tous en rond..." |
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| The Most Beautiful and Strongest House in the World
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Froissard (a Fourteenth Century poet) once described the Popes Palace as
"the most beautiful and strongest house in the world." It is certain that this grandiose architectural
structure built against the Doms rocks and classified a national heritage by UNESCO, offers a magnificent
sight to its many visitors. To visit the Palace, we advise you request a guided visit on the site.
You will find the schedule of visits on site easily. As an important artistic and cultural center, Avignon offers an array of museums
and exhibitions, rich and varied especially during the summer months when a festival takes place: acrobats,
streets artists, musicians, magic shows and timeless spectacles, all coexist in harmony. An atmosphere that
no one should miss. Please note that the "Pont du Gard" is only 18 miles south-west from Avignon. The Roman City of Vaison la Romaine
is located 31 miles north-east of Avignon. Unforgettable and easy to reach from Avignon.
Would you like to read more about Provence and France?
Click here.
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