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onjour!
As summer approaches, we have chosen to simply wander along the roads of Provence, a region
that is close to our hearts, rather than stop at a specific place or town. In these few lines,
we hope to share with you the pleasure of sunny walks where you are lulled by the incessant
shrilling of the cicadas, the display of colors and the pervasive scents, in particular those
of the magnificent lavender fields. We will also mention the history of lavender honey, one of
the most wonderful local products.
But before continuing, please remember that you can access and read all the newsletters already
published at http://www.francemonthly.com/
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The Lavender Roads
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Almost as soon as you enter Provence, you come across these marvelous fields of
lavender. Just breathe and follow your sense of smell! The perfume from these
fields stretching before your enchanted eyes very quickly becomes heady.
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Lavander Field in Provence
(Click photo to enlarge)
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The most beautiful lavender roads are divided among three specific territories of Provence:
the Drôme provençale between Dieulefit and Valréas, a very accessible area by car since it
is close to the "Highway of the Sun" (A6), the region of Die which makes up the pre-Alps
east of Gap, and the region of the breathtaking Gorge of the Verdon, near Dignes-les-Bains.
These roads will take you straight to the discovery of wonderful sites where you’ll enjoy
driving with all your windows rolled down during the month of July, right before the cutting
of flowers. Every area has its own characteristics, its traditions and its lavender festivals
all summer long. Each one offers the same enchanting spectacle of magnificent rolling fields,
covered with an ample mauve coat, that fill the villages and countryside with the smell of lavender.
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True Lavender vs. "Lavandin"
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Lavender is a small wild and aromatic woody shrub, just like thyme and savory, which all belong
to the Lamiaceae family. Though it isn’t bothered by wind, neither the mistral nor the tramontane,
it is particularly fond of the sun and of poor rocky and chalky terrains. As a matter of fact,
traces of lavender were even found in the Sahara before it became a total desert, which explains
why it’s not unusual to see lavender growing in actual fields of rocks. Perfectly adapted to arid
environments, its many roots sink deeply into the soil in search of the necessary water. No less
than 50 different varieties of lavender have been counted but only 4 or 5 are common. These can be
divided into two categories: true lavender and "lavandin". The former grows above 2,300 feet, and
is the only true lavender, described as "fine". Used by the great perfumers and recognized for its
medicinal properties, it only grows at high altitude, whereas "lavandin", a tall hybrid plant
domesticated by man who increases its production by cutting, grows in abundance in the plains.
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Recipe for June 2006
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Honey Apple Tart
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The Origins of Lavender
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Lavender came originally from Persia and the Spanish Canary islands that face Morocco, and
established itself in Provence in ancient times. The Greeks and the Romans used it to scent
their baths or their freshly laundered linen. The word "lavender" actually comes from the
Latin verb "lavare", which means "to wash".
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Picked Lavender in an Apron
(Click photo to enlarge)
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They also used this precious aromatic plant for its soothing and healing qualities.
Although lavender had been growing in the wild up until the 20th century, it was
distilled as early as the 16th century to extract the essential oil that accumulates
in its purple flowers. During the terrible plague of 1720 that ravaged Provence for
almost two years, it wasn’t unusual to come across travelers clutching bunches of
lavender to protect themselves from the horrible effects of the disease. Botanists
and pharmacists were quick to research its medicinal properties. In 1770, the Parliament
of Provence, aware they had in their possession a plant with a wealth of beneficial
attributes, regulated the cutting of lavender and its extraction into an essential oil.
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The Harvest
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The word "lavender" conjures up blue fields that extend as far as the eye can see, and
whose subtle perfume delights those who travel up and down the roads of Provence during
the months of June and July. However, these fields are the result of meticulous work
carried out all year long by families who have been very attached to their land and
their traditions for generations.
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Lavender Mechanical Harvest in Provence
(Click photo to enlarge)
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They will be glad to share their passion with you during friendly encounters. On certain
farms where they pick this very high-quality delicate lavender, the harvest is still done
by hand, under a blazing sun, at the risk of being stung by wasps or maybe even bitten by
a snake. Then, the lavender is dried for two days, very often right where it was picked,
so that all of the water held in the flower can evaporate before distillation. In the old
days, the picking was done by women, and men were in charge of the distillation. If the
lavender farmer did not own his own still, he would use the services of a traveling distiller
who would either go from farm to farm or set himself up on village squares and rent out his
services.
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The Distillation
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The distillation process consists of passing steam through the dried flowers, gathered up
in bunches in a still to extract their essential oil. Different distillation techniques are
used depending on the desired result, whether for use in cosmetic preparations, or as a
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An Alambic in Provence
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gastronomic, medicinal, or housekeeping product.
It takes 287 lbs of real lavender (but only 88 lbs of "lavandin") to produce 1 liter of
essential oil. For the high-end perfume industry, the method is very sophisticated. The
flowers are washed, and then dissolved in a solvent. From this method comes a pasty extract
with a very sweet scent called "the concrete", which is mixed with alcohol that absorbs the
odorous principles. Several rounds of filtering are necessary to rid the alcohol of its
impurities, after which the alcohol itself is eliminated by use of an evaporator. This
leaves behind a very aromatic liquid called "the absolute". No less than 1 metric ton (2,205 lbs)
of true lavender is necessary to yield only 33 lbs of "concrete", which in turn amounts to less
than 3 gallons of "absolute" after the evaporation step. This "absolute" is then sent to the
little laboratory of the perfume magician, the "nose", where it will be incorporated into the
composition of one of his wonderful creations, a most extraordinary achievement.
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A Stress-Free Seasonal Migration |
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It is not unusual to catch sight of little wooden cages dispersed here and there in these
dreamy bluish fields. These are the beehives set in place so that the bees can come gather
pollen from the delicate lavender nectar that they are fond of. Aside from the queen who
assumes the role of egg-laying bee, and doesn’t hesitate to massacre her rivals to maintain
absolute power, the career of a worker bee is determined by its age. As soon as a bee is born,
it has to clean its cell before becoming a wet nurse. When it can no longer feed the larva, it
becomes a builder and produces the wax necessary to construct the alveoli. Then it becomes a
security guard, protecting the hive from dangers on the outside. It will later leave home when
it only has a couple of weeks left to live, assuming insects or birds don’t kill it. Our
experienced worker bee, then, is the one who gathers the pollen, going from flower to flower
with relish, collecting what will become an exquisitely scented lavender honey. In early June,
the beekeeper comes to get these precious hives at night, without any light or noise and with
the utmost care, and puts them down on lavender fields carefully to avoid causing these young
ladies any stress. Indeed, any kind of sudden movement would make the temperature rise and melt
the wax alveoli in the hive. After the harvest, the work begins: very precise sieving, maturation
and regular skimming are all essential to the production of quality lavender honey.
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The Guest Farms
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Your discovery of the lavender roads can not be complete without a stopover in a guest farm.
You can find their addresses in tourist information offices. You will be offered exclusively
products from the farm, in a country setting and for a very reasonable price. We have ourselves
made a marvelous find while traveling these roads of Provence, the guest farm of Gianni and Ingrid.
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Ferme Auberge « Le Castelas »
(Click photo to enlarge)
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Imagine a dirt road that seems to be leading you to the end of the world, where scenery
worthy of a postcard awaits you: a majestic mountain surrounded by dense forests, and
a splendid sheep barn basking in the sun under an intense blue sky. Welcome to a land
of genuine beauty! It was Gianni who discovered this magical place, 25 years ago. He
came from his native Sardinia to work as a shepherd and make goat cheese that he would
share with hikers, in front of a dilapidated barn that he had fallen in love with. He
was never to leave it. Today, with the help of his wife, he runs the farm that they have
transformed into a really charming gathering place, where tourists, hikers and artists
mingle, and enjoy divine food. Calling all connoisseurs of the good, the authentic and
the refined, you have found your spot! Any sort of chance meeting is possible at this farm.
I even met a prince there. The "Le Castelas" guest farm is located in Sivergues-en-Lubéron.
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An Invitation to Travel... |
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Provence is a beautiful region all year long. But it is particularly enjoyable at the end of June
and early July, when it is a real treat for the senses, offering an array of colors, sweet smells
and sounds. Whether you go on foot, by bicycle or by car, the cicadas will accompany you with their
incessant and bewitching song, the sun will warm you with its rays of light, and the sky will dazzle
you with its intense blue. You will no doubt enjoy these winding and picturesque roads lined with
vineyards or blue fields releasing heady perfume. You will marvel at these olive trees sometimes
planted right in the middle of a lavender field with buzzing beehives. Provence is all of this
and much more. It is a multitude of sensations and out of the ordinary encounters with impassioned
people, such as the family of lavender farmers who created a lavender museum which is well worth
the visit. To get the museum’s address and telephone number, just click on
http://www.museedelalavande.com/anglais/index_gl.html. For your itinerary selection,
I suggest you go to the following website:
http://www.routes-lavande.com/travelling/map.html.
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