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onjour!
We are delighted that you have shown so much interest in our previous newsletter on the Basque Country.
Following up on your requests, we are featuring this little known yet so very rich region a second
time. Whereas we initially talked about Basque identity through customs and traditions, we are now
going to take you along a sight-seeing circuit. Let’s follow the Atlantic coastline (470 miles
south-west of Paris) and go further south, all the way down to St-Jean-de-Luz. Come along, if you
please, and fall for the charm of this incomparable area. Ongi etorri! Welcome!
But before continuing, please remember that you can access and read all the newsletters already
published at http://www.francemonthly.com/
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Bayonne, Capital of the Basque Country and of Chocolate
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According to an Aztec legend, it was the gardener from Paradise who brought the very first cocoa
tree seeds down to Earth, to tropical America where the climate was hot and humid enough for them
to germinate.
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Bayonne, Capital of the Basque Country
(Click photo to enlarge)
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Christopher Columbus discovered this mysterious bean along with various spices, and carefully
brought this treasure back to Spain. The Jewish community was quick to acquire the reputation
of master chocolate makers, as they transformed the bitter bean into a delicious chocolate drink.
Persecuted by the Inquisition, they had to run away and found refuge in Bayonne. They took along
with them the precious secret recipe for this beverage, much to the displeasure of the Church, as
it was said that chocolate possessed aphrodisiac qualities not compatible with the life of a
good Christian. This devil’s brew created quite a stir, and the drink once exclusively reserved
for the social elite very quickly reached the masses and became in the end a genuine treat for
all people. Bayonne earned itself the unofficial title of European Hot Chocolate Capital and later
built the famous Chocolate Museum.
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The Love Chamber
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Nature-loving hikers, golf amateurs, and more recently surf enthusiasts have all embraced the
Basque Country as their promised land. Are you looking for endless fine sandy beaches, flower
parks, deep forests, impressive golf courses, breathtaking waves for the most daring surfers
and an exceptional microclimate? Well search no more... you will find it all in Anglet. This magical
place inspires both serenity and fear. Indeed, legend has it that a young couple, whose parents
opposed their love, came regularly to hide out in a cave at the end of the beach. One day,
unfortunately, the rising tide caught them off guard and they were swept away by the waves,
forever united. From that day on, the cave became known as the "Love Chamber" and attracted
many other lovers who ventured inside of it, even Napoléon I and Empress Josephine who could not
resist their curiosity about the place. It is said that the empress even lost a shoe in the cave!
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Recipe for June 2005 |
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Piperade Tart
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Biarritz, Meeting Place of the Jet Set
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How could one have imagined that this medieval little whale fishing port was destined to
later become the meeting place for some of the richest and most famous personalities of
our modern times? Back then, Biarritz and the entire Basque coastline served as points of
departure for the first explorers. Because whale fishing was a vital activity for the economy
of the region, the mammals’ migratory movements forced the Basque fishermen to push the limits
of their hunting grounds further and further.
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Hôtel du Palais, the Palace Hotel
(Click photo to enlarge)
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This is how the Basques discovered Newfoundland, Greenland and even South America. Much later,
during the 19th century, Empress Eugenie helped make Biarritz famous. She had known and loved
this village since childhood, and after marrying Napoleon III, she decided to make it her summer
residence town, bringing along with her courtesans and aristocrats who gave the city its airs of
nobility. This place is truly magical and its climate very pleasant. The beautiful and impressive
"Villa Eugenie" later became the "Hôtel du Palais" (Palace Hotel) where many famous people from all
over the world came to stay, whether they were kings, queens, princes, statesmen or movie stars.
Then came the casinos and the prestigious festivals that brought Biarritz its modern-day fame.
Victor Hugo loved Biarritz. He wrote of it, in 1843: "I don’t know a single place more charming
and beautiful than Biarritz". No doubt today’s visitor will share his feelings while strolling
along the "Corniche" (Coastline road) overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and facing the "Rocher de
la Vierge" (Rock of the Virgin).
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The Makhila
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When you leave the coastline to venture inland, in the Labourd area south of Biarritz, there is
one small village not to be missed: Larressore. This is where the "emak hila", Basque for "giver
of death", is still made in the traditional way.
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The Makhila
(Click photo to enlarge)
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It is an original tool that looks like a simple stick but is in fact much more than that. Even
though the pilgrims used the makhila as a walking stick during their long journeys, this type
of cane made from medlar trees and finely ornamented became a real defensive weapon to be used in
the face of sudden danger or unexpected bad company, which showed up quite frequently in the Middle
Ages. The walker only had to unscrew the handle to reveal a sharp spike that no one animal or human
being would want to mess with. This weapon turned out to be so efficient that the blacksmiths of
Bayonne took great inspiration from it when they invented the famous and fearsome "baïonnette" which
was later to become an integral part of all gun barrels used by all the European armies. In time,
this defensive object became a trophy to honor the most deserving of recognition: Winston Churchill,
Charles de Gaulle, Ronald Reagan, Pope Jean Paul II and many other great men were offered a makhila,
made of silver or gold, with all the honors due to their ranks.
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St-Jean-de-Luz, a Pirates’ Den
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St-Jean-de-Luz is probably one of the most picturesque towns of the Basque coast.
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Saint Jean-de-Luz Harbor
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Located at the mouth of the river Nivelle, this small fishing port offers the charm of typical Basque
architecture and the pleasure of a particularly warm welcome.
Originally, however, the prosperity of this town didn’t come from tourism or fishing, but rather
from the activity of corsairs. These infamous clever sailors were hired by the King of France with
a "lettre de course" (privateering letter), and given the mission to chase British commercial vessels
and seize their goods, in the name of, and for, His Majesty. Generously rewarded for their devotion,
they were able to build themselves beautiful residences that still add much to the charm of the city
today. St-Jean-de-Luz also very quickly became a den for another category of sailors, pirates, who
were either too destitute to serve the king or were simply motivated by greed. They stole on their
own behalf. For many decades, pirates found the port of St-Jean-de-Luz to be an excellent home base.
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St-Jean-de-Luz, where Reasons of State win over Love |
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Although it was the corsairs who brought the town prosperity, it was an event of a much different
sort, in the 17th century, that brought it fame. For several months, King Louis XIV – the future
Sun King – had been very much in love. Barely 20 years old, he wasn’t yet interested in matters of
state, but did enjoy spending happy carefree days in the company of one of Cardinal Mazarin’s nieces,
Marie Mancini. Cardinal Mazarin was determined to end the extravagantly expensive war between
France and Spain that had been going on for more than 30 years. King Philippe IV of Spain, equally
concerned, was ready to sign a peace treaty under the condition that the king marry his daughter,
Infanta Marie-Therese. Negotiations got underway, while Louis XIV tried in vain to rebel. He begged,
cried and defended his love for the young Italian woman. But reasons of state prevailed, his lover
was ordered sent away in exile, and the royal wedding was organized in St-Jean-de-Luz, a few miles
from the French-Spanish border. On June 9th, 1660, the union of Louis XIV, King of France, and
Marie-Therese, Infanta of Spain, was blessed in the church of St Jean Baptiste. As soon as the
young spouses walked out of the building together, the door they had just passed through was
immediately sealed so that no one would ever be able to follow in their footsteps... The ensuing
festivities were lavish, and so pleased Louis XIV that he bestowed many privileges upon the city
in compensation for the cost of his wedding. Though far from being a fairy tale, this marriage
did allow the signing of a peace treaty that lasted 60 years, and the king who had left his true
love behind, consoled himself well enough in other women’s arms, albeit not in those of his lawful
and nevertheless pretty wife...
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The Pottocks
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For an absolute change of scenery, you must leave St-Jean-de-Luz and wander on inland, towards
the marvelous little village of Sare. Six or so miles away, a little wood train awaits you. Ever
since 1924, it climbs the slopes of the Rhune, the sacred mountain of Basque Country, at a speed
of 5 miles per hour. Just 35 minutes later, and 2,970 feet higher, there you are!
Welcome to one of the most beautiful panoramas in the world.
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The Rhune, the Sacred Mountain of Basque Country
(Click photo to enlarge)
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The peaks of the Pyrenees range spread out as far as the eye can see. In
the valley, the entire Basque coastline unravels like a long ribbon. Nature stands in still
magnificence for all to enjoy. The silence is only interrupted by the sound of hooves: here come
the pottocks! No one really knows where these adorable little Basque wild horses originally came
from. They only bother the occasional mountain dweller who gets tired of their frequent and large
helpings from their vegetable gardens. The Rhune is their turf, where they can run free. With a
little luck, you might also spot the manech, a little red-headed mountain sheep whose milk is used
to make a delicious local cheese, the ardi gasna. Nature-lovers, you are in for a treat, and a
wonderful time!
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An Invitation to Travel... |
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Whether you are golf amateurs, fearless surfers or just hikers, you will fall in love with this
region. From Bayonne to St-Jean-de-Luz, you will admire a spectacle with plenty of local color: an
ocean with enormous and impetuous waves, a green countryside where old traditions are still followed,
a mountain with a breathtaking panorama. There is so much for all your senses to enjoy, as you immerse
yourself in the local culture: games of Basque pelota, festivals, traditional dances. The Basques
are a warm people who naturally enjoy celebrations. If you are looking for calmer activities, you can
go for a stroll down the endless beaches or play the many golf courses of the region, or you may relax
with a soothing course of thalassotherapy... No matter what you do, a change of scenery and an
unforgettable visit are guaranteed.
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