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onjour! We are dedicating this month’s newsletter to Burgundy, a region that was first settled
by a Scandinavian tribe in the 5th century. Originally, the area owed its fame to a spring with
healing powers where Celtic knights from Eastern Europe would come worship their Sun God, Bellenus.
However, today this region is famous for its numerous vineyards, some of which are listed among
the best in the world.
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| Burgundy: Monks And Wine |
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Burgundy: More Than a Province, Almost a State
It is impossible to talk about Burgundy without first mentioning its history. Indeed, for several
centuries, this region held great power and represented a real headache for the kings of France. From
the time of its 6th century annexation by the Franks, and for about a century thereafter, Burgundy
claimed a certain degree of independence, while remaining very tied to the Crown of France. The land
of Burgundy had often been given to the reigning king’s youngest son as an irrevocable legacy, and
always enjoyed a special status. In fiscal matters for instance, the duchy was exempt from indirect
taxes (except for the ‘gabelle’, the very unpopular salt tax which all of France was subject to). In
the 15th century, Duke Philip the Good, of Burgundy, became one of the most powerful princes in Europe
and was considered the founder of a new State. A patron of the arts, he surrounded himself with a
brilliant court. He created an order of knighthood, the Order of the Golden Fleece, to unite around
him the nobility and the various Burgundian territories (which back then included Belgium and Holland).
In 1477, however, when Philip’s son died without leaving a male heir, King Louis XI was once and for
all able to take Burgundy away from the dukes and attach it to the kingdom of France.
‘L’Hôtel-Dieu’ (General Hospital)
When the Hundred Years’ War finally came to an end, the long-awaited peace did not put an end to the
suffering of the people of Burgundy. Indeed, unscrupulous bandits were running wild throughout the
countryside, causing misery and famine. Desperate, the farmers begged their lords to offer them some
protection. Nicolas Rolin, chancellor to Philippe the Good, with his wife, Guigone de Salin, heard
their cry for help and decided in 1433 to build a hospital where the most destitute would be cared
for. It would take 8 years to complete this magnificent building that was made part of the city walls
protecting the population from armed gangs. Nothing was overlooked, and only the greatest master
craftsmen were hired for the construction and the finest artists brought in for the decoration of what
was supposed to be the "Palace of the Poor". On January 1st, 1452, ‘l’Hôtel-Dieu’ finally welcomed its
first patient and continued to carry out its mission up until 1971. The buildings have since been
modernized, and today house a retirement home where growing old peacefully is made quite enjoyable.
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| Recipe
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Floating Island |
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The Hospices de Beaune
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As of January 29th, 1454, the sick were authorized by Philippe the Good to donate a part, or the
entirety, of their wealth to the hospital, whether during their lifetime or in their will, to support
its charitable purpose. This is how this public health establishment came to acquire substantial holdings
over the years. These numerous donations allowed the estate of the Hospices to grow to its present-day
more than 148 acres which represent 39 great vintages, most of which rank among the best in the world.
Since 1859, an annual auction is held by candlelight on the 3rd Sunday of November (except for bad
harvest years), always preceded by a wine tasting. To signal the end of each bid, a candle is blown out.
The high sales records are a good indicator of the value of these fine vintage wines. The profits are
directly allocated to the on-going modernization of the hospital. It is the largest charity auction in
the world.
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Just Where in France is Alesia?
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The three connected names Julius Caesar, Vercingetorix and Alesia conjure up a bitter defeat in Burgundy,
well known by all French school children. In August of 52 BC near Dijon, the leader of Gaul, Vercingetorix,
was forced to retreat by Caesar’s Roman legions. He shut himself away along with his 80,000 infantrymen
within the confines of a fortification on top of Mount Auxois in Alesia, with only enough food to last 30
days. His cavalry that managed to escape was sent for reinforcements. The Gaul army returned with no less
than 240,000 foot soldiers and 8,000 cavalrymen. Unfortunately, they arrived too late, after the 60 days
of siege. Inside the fort, the men were starving and ready to resort to cannibalism to survive. Poorly
armed and undisciplined, they had launched a few assaults but had been easily defeated by Caesar’s army.
If historians do agree on the details of the battle, what they can’t agree on is the precise geographical
location of Alesia. No less than 30 different areas in France claim to be the scene of the battle.
Officially, the recognition goes to Alise Ste Reine, in the Côte-d’Or region. Its most serious challenger
seems to be Chaux de Crotenay, a few miles south of Champagnole in the Jura mountain range of northeastern
France. Now, only the French would want to hold claim to the site of a defeat!
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The Cistercians: Powerful Monks in Spite of Themselves
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In the middle of the 11th century, when the power of the church was tremendous, the Benedictine Abbey
of Cluny was the richest one in France, thanks to the charges, feudal rights, and donations that it
collected. It was so prosperous that the monks forgot that under the Rule of St Benoit, they had taken
a vow of poverty and had renounced all earthly pleasures. Quite to the contrary, they were leading a
decadent life. Some monks, offended by such affluence, left the abbey in search of solitude, poverty,
and a perfect communion with God. They settled south of Dijon in a marshy area where the only vegetation
consisted of reeds, called ‘citeaux’ which in old French meant ‘where only wild beasts live’. And so
they acquired the name Cistercians. They chose to dress in white, the color of un-dyed wool, to
distinguish themselves from the monks of Cluny who wore black. The Cistercians refused any sort of
private income and sought to organize their monastic life around work.
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The Birth of One of the Most Famous Vineyards in France
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The Cistercians settled in this wooded and marshy area in order to live in perfect harmony with the Rule
of St Benoit. But the lords of the region, probably feeling they should atone for their sins on earth,
took the monks under their protection. Donations abounded, namely in the form of uncultivated land that
the perfectionist monks were quick to turn into rich vineyards. The Benedictine Rule, however strict it
may have been, prescribed the consumption of wine, albeit in moderation. The monks were therefore wine
growers for their own consumption but sold their surplus. They built low stone walls around the best
plots of land, thereby leaving behind the famous "clos" (enclosed fields) which dot the landscape of
Burgundy. Among them are the ‘Clos de Vougeot’ dating back to 1330, and today one of the most famous
vineyards in France.
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Famous Men Enjoy Burgundy Wines
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The Romans brought the vine to Burgundy, where the semi-continental climate and sunshine of the region
favored the growth of the grapes. No other region in the world located at such high latitude can claim
to produce such excellent quality red wines. It was said that the Dukes of Burgundy were the "Lords of
the best wines of Christianity". The Emperor Charlemagne himself owned a winery that produced Corton,
a variety that he particularly enjoyed. The mountain of Corton was entirely planted with Pinot Noir grapes
to produce only red wine. Legend has it that in his later years, Charlemagne became a bit clumsy, and
would often spill red wine onto his long white beard (that was also decorated with flowers). Exasperated,
his wife demanded that a white grape variety be planted on part of their land, so that he could drink
wine that wouldn’t leave any stains on his beard. The great philosopher Voltaire would offer his guests
either Beaujolais or Languedoc wine, and keep the Corton for himself. He was particularly fond of this
wine that he considered to be ‘the elixir of his life’. He claimed to drink about a gallon of it per day,
and maintained that it was a matter of health, not luxury. Another famous Corton connoisseur was J.F.
Kennedy.
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| Invitation to Travel
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Burgundy is no longer the rebel province from the Middle-Ages that stood as a threat to the kings of
France, but it has retained a unique charm throughout the years. We highly recommend you make a stop
there, should you be traveling between Paris and the south of France. Why not follow the ‘Route des Vins’
proposed by our partners, the Hospices of Beaune, the Clos de Vougeot, and so many other vineyards?
There are so many castles to discover and wines to taste (in moderation, of course). One newsletter
can not possibly cover all the wonders of Burgundy, and so we’ll be sure to follow up on this region
in the future.
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