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onjour! We have devoted the May newsletter
to the most visited medieval village in France: St. Paul de
Vence. Located in Provence, 30 km northeast of Nice and towering
at an altitude of 180 meters, this little village has conquered
the hearts of tourists from around the world. On beautiful
days, join them to roam the shadowed alleyways and wander
from fountains to plazas and from gardens to art galleries
in this splendid medieval village. But before continuing,
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The Provencal Pastime
“Place Charles de Gaulle”, situated at the entrance of the village was baptized in 1948 when General de Gaulle himself visited
St. Paul. It is impossible to miss and an absolute must see as the first step of your visit to St. Paul. On this plaza many have played,
from morning ‘til night -- and still do - the game of “pétanque or boules”. Although this game dates from antiquity, the people of
Provence like to believe that they are at the origin of this bowling type game, so popular in this region. It was in 1910, inspired by
a friend who’s movement was hindered by rheumatism, that Ernest Pitiot imagined a game of throwing a ball into a circle drawn into
the sand with feet joined. “pe Tanque” in Provencal language means feet tied, and so was born “Pétanque”. The game quickly
gathered a list of noble celebrities who became adept at the competition. From painters Chagall and Matisse, to the sculptor
Mancini, and even the famous actors Fernandel, Yves Montand and Lino Ventura. These latter were even known to delay film
shootings to prolong their never ending games. As Marcel Pagnol once said: “Once a game of “boules” starts, it is an entire village
that is born”.
Medieval City
St. Paul’s notoriety is essentially due to its past as a medieval city. When you see the ancient stones which form the protective walls
of the village, you can imagine that they’ve been there forever. At the entrance of the city stands the imposing, vaulted “Porte Royale”
which welcomes the onlooker. It was erected at the same time as the ramparts. The mouth of a cannon can be seen next to it through
an opening in a bastion. These various bastions, walls, and dungeon were built to make St. Paul seem like a warring city or fortified
castle to possible intruders. As a matter of fact the city still boasts its Defense tower, known as the “Tour de la Fondule”, dating back
to the fourteenth century. Its main function was to be the lookout tower onto the valley below, but it also served as a prison. It has
since been restored to its original state. The stone frontage along the Rue Grande, a pedestrian street, dates back to the sixteenth and
eighteenth centuries. A step inside the enchanting walls of St Paul de Vence quickly transports you to another time.
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| Recipe
for May 2003 |
French Flan |
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Cooking SOS !
If you run into trouble with one of our recipes, send an SOS e-mail to
911@FranceMonthly.com
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The Most Coveted Location in Provence |
Located on a large rocky promontory, once surrounded by the sea, the village of St. Paul de Vence offered a strategic location for
those that settled here. The first to occupy the land were the Ligurians. Chased by the Romans in 120BC, they called their newly
found region “Povincia”, now known as “La Provence”. It quickly became its own small republic and enjoyed great autonomy. The
King of France, François the First, who was at war for 20 years with Charles the Fifth, decided in 1537, to fortify the cities at the
edge of his kingdom. He included St. Paul which was strongly coveted for its strategic placement, in these fortifications. This was a
prosperous period for the city, during which it became known as “Ville Royale”. It was not until 1747, with the wars of succession,
that St. Paul suffered its first assault of invaders, who destroyed the city. In its aftermath of this trauma, St. Paul’s history became
less warlike and much more romantic.
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The Ramparts of Love |
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In reality, despite the strategic location of the village, the fortification of St. Paul was not one of François the First’s main priorities.
But, for surprising reasons, a military engineer named François de Mandon, charged with the fortification of the nearby village of Broc,
decided otherwise. On his passage from St. Rémy, through the village of St. Paul, he encountered one of the village’s young maidens
and fell madly in love. Being unable to leave her, he sent a courier to the king urging him to fortify St. Paul to thwart the departing
armies of Charles the Fifth coming from Nice, all so that he could stay with her. Once his mission was completed however, he was
called back by the King. He left behind his beloved, and the ramparts, as magnificent proof of his love. Now national monuments,
these ramparts, when seen from one vantage point, appear to be in the shape of a heart, from another vantage point, they seem to
be the ace of spades. However you see them, when you stroll along these old walls and look out onto the horizon, the ramparts
of St. Paul are undoubtedly the most beautiful in the world.
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St. Paul, a Provencal Balcony |
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Previously surrounded by the sea, St. Paul now rises above the valley on a promontory, giving the appearance of a ship.
During the first days of spring, it is a veritable explosion of magnificent colors and heavenly fragrances. In true harmony,
the magnolias, lilacs and lavender along with the mimosas, lemon and mandarin trees, erupt together into wild color and
scents against the ancient gray stones. On a clear day, from this picturesque balcony, dressed in Venetian lanterns, one can
look out across the vast green valley of Malvan, until the sea appears with the Cap of Antibes at its furthest point. Behind is the
“Baous”; a rocky massif, which has been immortalized by many landscape artists. Truly one of the most spectacular views of the
region.
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A Cannon, Thrower of Cherries |
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Just like many of the villages in Provence, St. Paul has a cannon. This one, embedded into the ramparts of the city, seems
to have found its well deserved resting place. However, certain legends abound about the surprising uses of this weapon,
known as the “Lacan”. Inherited from the Italians, at the battle of Cerisoles, the people of the region of Vence were
very jealous of the “Lacan” that was kept in the city of St. Paul. Driven by their desire, the regional people planned
to steal it. The secret operation, however, was soon revealed, and the people of the village of St. Paul rose to
defend the “Lacan”. As they prepared for the upcoming attack, however, the people of St. Paul discovered that their
stock of ammunition was depleted. “We can’t have a cannon without ammunition.” the governor said. He gave the order
to gather the greatest amount of cherry pits possible. Despite the possibility of indigestion, the loyal citizens of
St. Paul went to work - eating cherries and spitting the pits into bags. Upon the arrival of the people of Vence, a
terrific explosion was heard, followed by another, and a huge deluge of cherry pits rained on the distraught attackers.
Today, the cannon fires nor a cannonball nor a cherry. It rests in the wall to flout the people of
Vence, reminding them of their disappointment.
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City of Arts |
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St. Paul de Vence is first and foremost a city of the arts. A land of artists of all types, from the troubadours to the minstrels,
including famous stars such as Yves Montand. During the middle ages, the city was known for its numerous artisans, including
weavers and stone and wood cutters. This cultural inheritance is still alive and well in St. Paul de Vence, and the city has
developed a certain style of art over the course of time. In the 1920s, numerous artists were drawn to the area because
of its special light, and its historic past. In such they participated in its renaissance. Jean Giono, Bernard Shaw, Matisse,
Renoir, Dufy, Mancini, the writer and poet Jacques Prévert -- all spent some time in St. Paul -- and the painter, Marc
Chagall, was even buried here. At the end of the last century, it was the vacation spot for many French actors - an escape
from the glamour and glitter of the Cannes boardwalk. All types of arts are still present here, as represented by the countless
galleries that crisscross the ancient alleyways of the village. An enclave for the people in the arts and entertainment, St. Paul rises
on its rocky mount, an emblem of the arts for all of Provence.
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St. Paul de Vence has the look of a labyrinth; a virtual maze of little paths and galleries, where more than 7000 visitors per
day meander. Attracted by a beautiful vista, a garden or the facade of an art gallery, you can easily take one small street, then
another, and before you know it, find yourself at the plaza you started from! Your mind often seems to be playing tricks on you.
It is difficult to leave the magical village of St. Paul, as the harmonious feel of this small village almost puts you in a trance. If St. Paul
de Vence is close to the skies, it is for many, a little heaven on earth...
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