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onjour!
this month we would like to revisit Belle-Ile-en-Mer, that pretty little Breton island that we
first wrote about a couple of months ago. We hadn't ended the visit, as the island is so rich
in history. Indeed, when boats arrive close to the island and its main port, the sailors' first
look invariably lands to starboard, towards the long group of buildings protected by impressive
great walls that overlook the ocean. They form the reassuring presence of the Vauban citadel,
the island's signature structure that represents the site's past military importance.
But before continuing, please remember that you can access and read all the newsletters already
published at http://www.francemonthly.com/
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An Uncompleted Fortress
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In 1549, King Henri II was well intent on taking on the pirates once and for all,
and sent the duke François de Rohan, first lieutenant of Brittany, to Belle-Ile.
His mission was to erect a fortress fit for the kingdom of France, a true rampart
facing any potential invader, wherever he may come from.
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Aerial view of the Vauban's Fortress
(Click photo to enlarge)
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It must be said that at that time, local defense systems were practically non-existent
and consisted solely of the modest castle built in the 11th Century by the Benedictine
monks. Pirates therefore felt right at home on Belle-Ile. When a quarter century later,
King Charles IX turned over the management of the island to the Marquis de Gondi, all
the latter got upon his arrival was a small square fort flanked by four pentagonal
fortifications. He did some site planning, expanded the military building by wrapping
the original surrounding wall with battlements, and had a second wall built that he
fortified with a trench. The original castle then definitely took on the appearance
of a fortress. Later on, it was the turn of Nicolas Fouquet, fifth Marquis of Belle-Ile,
to undertake considerable work to improve the defense systems. Unfortunately, he was
arrested in Nantes on September 5, 1661, on orders from King Louis XIV, who was perhaps
jealous of his over-the-top success. He was therefore unable to complete the task, and
15 years later, a Dutch fleet invasion irreparably confirmed the weaknesses of the fortress.
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Fifty Four Years of Good and Loyal Services
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Sebastian Le Pestre de Vauban began his military career at seventeen. Although recruited
by the Prince de Condé, who was committed to the civil war movement against royal power
known as "la Fronde", the young serviceman changed sides in 1653. From that day on, he
followed the king in his campaigns and took part in many sieges which became a learning
experience for him. In fact, he was interested in everything, hydraulics, mechanics,
the earth, and men. He thoroughly studied the weaknesses of places under siege, denouncing
the men's inexperience, as well as the destructive ambition of the generals and the endless
wastefulness. He offered pragmatic solutions to these failures, and in so-doing revolutionized
the art of war-making. Vauban was above all a humanist, and saving human lives was his primary
goal while he worked on perfecting defense systems. Louis XIV made him the main organizer for
all military construction in the country. Vauban accomplished this mission by supervising the
upgrade of 130 fortified towns and the building of about 30 of them. This is why the French
borders, of land and sea alike, are lined with these massive star-shaped citadels so typical
of this brilliant engineer's design.
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Recipe for March 2008
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Breton Apple Cake (Quatre Quarts)
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Vauban on Belle-Ile
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When Vauban, as commissioner general of the kingdom's fortifications, landed for the first
time on Belle-Ile in March 1683, a real fortress stood before him. However, as an acute
observer and a skilled engineer, he set out to evaluate all its imperfections. His verdict
was adamant; it had to be rebuilt from scratch. But there was only enough in the budget he
was granted to cover less extensive modifications.
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The Main Habour and the Fortress
(Click photo to enlarge)
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Generally speaking, his strategy was to extend all exterior construction,
starting from the existing group of buildings, in order to delay any enemy
attempt at an invasion or be able to resist it while awaiting reinforcements.
This is what he set out to do on Belle-Ile. When these transformations were
completed, the citadel had acquired the star-shaped plan that you see today,
its final form, with one exception. Indeed, Vauban had planned for the construction
of a fortified surrounding wall as soon as he had set foot on the island. His
goal was clear, to provide better protection for the population, but also,
thanks to this great wall, to make any attempt at a siege more difficult simply
by increasing the perimeter to surround. Unfortunately, without the necessary
funds, it didn't get built until much later, in the 19th Century under the Second
Empire, at a time when the modernization of artillery had rendered these fortifications
obsolete and left the place without any strategic value whatsoever.
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The Twelve Poisoners
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On February 22, 1680, Mrs "la Voisin" (a pejorative derivative of her married name,
"Montvoisin") was burnt at the stake on the Place de Grève in Paris.
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The Rampart of the Fortress
(Click photo to enlarge)
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Her crimes were horrendous. She was accused of making and selling poisons,
performing abortions, and organizing black masses where newborns and children
were sacrificed. But the ultimate horror was to find out that otherwise
perfectly honorable people had participated in these
demonic ceremonies. It was rumored that among them was Madame de Montespan, the
mistress of King Louis XIV. When the king found out that she had made him swallow
mysterious powders that were supposed to render him more amorous, he was appalled.
He even put a halt to the suits brought against the twelve accomplices of "la Voisin"
because he couldn't for a minute consider that such a terrible story be allowed to
spread across the whole kingdom and perhaps even across the borders. The twelve
poisoners, including the daughter of "la Voisin" were deported as far away as
possible, to the island of Belle-Ile, where they were imprisoned in the dark
dungeons of the Vauban citadel. Only one young woman would come out of there
alive, but only to be transferred to another prison. The eleven others were left
to slowly die in their tiny dark and dirty cells. The whole affair was so disturbing
that after Vauban arrived on Belle-Ile in March 1683, he never made a single mention
of these women in any of his reports even though they were still there at the time.
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A More Than Honorable Defeat
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The Knight of St Croix, commander of the island in 1761, undertook the fortifying
work that Vauban lacked the financial resources to complete. But it was too late.
France had already joined a new battle against the English, and it was only a
matter of time before an invasion, as Belle-Ile was seen as a highly strategic
acquisition. The English were militarily better prepared, and, above all, perfectly
informed of the island's
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The Courtyard of Vauban's Fortress
(Click photo to enlarge)
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topography by their spies. They landed at Locmaria (a small port east of the island) on April 22.
The French soldiers tried to resist them, but the enemy's fire power caused them to fall back on
the citadel. About 10,000 English soldiers then took position around the city and began an endless
siege. The Knight of St Croix appealed for help to the Duke of Aiguillon, commander in chief of
Brittany's government. But the latter was convinced that the citadel was untouchable and never
sent any reinforcements. After a month or so, the English managed to breach the southern great
wall, which was the soft spot, and entered the fortress. Aware that it was now a lost cause, the
Knight of St Croix resisted a few days longer but grew tired of waiting and eventually raised the
white flag. On June 11, the English witnessed the bizarre spectacle of the commander exiting through
the breach in the wall with his head held high, followed by his garrison forming a dignified line
and beating on drums. Faced with so much bravery, the magnanimous enemy granted the defeated all
military honors as a consolation prize.
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The Blanqui Castle |
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The 19th Century saw the fortress acquire a new purpose when a prison was built
north of the citadel, in 1848. It was used at the time to lock up political
prisoners such as Barbès and Blanqui, the revolutionaries and founding fathers
of French socialism. Ever since he was a student, the life of Auguste Blanqui
teetered between conspiracies against the monarchy and imprisonments. In fact,
the idealist spent most of his life behind bars. In November 1850, he was put
in prison on Belle-Ile, where he remained for seven years. In November 1857, he
plotted his escape in collusion with his mother. The old woman gave a fisherman
some money so that he would help her son escape and take him as far away as possible.
However, the fisherman, a good citizen but perhaps also one in search of a bigger
monetary gain, hid the fugitive and then warned the authorities. Blanqui was recaptured
and sent back to prison. Legend has it that with the money obtained from his treason,
the fisherman had himself built a beautiful residence that went by the name "the Blanqui
Castle". The fisherman's name was never revealed, nor was the location where he built
his small castle. Malicious gossip will point out that there are many "Blanqui Castles"
on Belle-Ile.
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A Vacation Villa
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For many years, the citadel continued to serve as a prison. The unfortunate residents were Germans
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View of the Harbour from the Fortress
(Click photo to enlarge)
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during World War I, then Spanish refugees in 1936. During WWII, the Germans took it over.
It wasn't until the end of these hostilities that the citadel was stripped of its military
vocation before finally being abandoned. In 1960, the 25 acres of land and 2.5 miles of
walls were sold at auction by the "Administration des Domaines" (in charge of the appraisal
and sale of State properties). By then, vegetation had completely covered what was seemingly
just a heap of ruins. When Mr and Mrs Larquetoux, a couple of tourists and lovers of old
stones, bought it on August 12, 1960, the site was in such a state of disrepair that they
thought they'd just acquired a large seaside villa in need of restoration. It was while
clearing the property that they discovered they were the owners of an absolutely exceptional
estate. For 45 years, their passion led them through a restoration project of inordinate
proportions. With the help of an architect who was also a fortifications historian, they
lifted the stones one at a time and returned the site to its former glory.
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An Invitation to Travel... |
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In 2005, Mr and Mrs Larquetoux passed the torch to another architectural heritage enthusiast,
Mr Philippe Savry. Today, the magnificently restored site keeps in store a multitude of
surprises for whoever crosses the threshold of the donjon's vaulted door. Indeed, beyond
these walls, bastions, and bunkers, the citadel is also a history museum that admirably
tells the story of this place's 1,000 years of torment, through either temporary or
permanent exhibits, as well as concerts. It is above all a captivating atmosphere that
emerges from there, coupled with the very real sensation that the stones have a soul.
The Vauban citadel is also an extraordinary hotel. Have you ever imagined spending the
night in luxurious soldier barracks or having lunch at the Governor's Table? If you'd
like to give your visit to Belle-Ile a unique and unusual twist, do reserve a room at
the citadel's hotel-museum. The former infirmary is now the reception, and you will
find small lounges designed for your relaxation, as well as delightful rooms with ocean
views. While sober, the interior is also very elegant and refined. This all forges an
unforgettable experience in a place of character and charm that I must highly recommend!
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